[1991 Jetta, A2, 1.8L, German-made] No lights on instrument panel or center console

How about the brightness pot? I don't know where it is on your dash, but make sure that is turned up.

The bulbs don't last that long... just a few bux at the dealer. Bit of a pain to change as the whole dash facia needs to come off followed by the cluster coming out. There's a step-by-step write-up at

That was the 58e and 58b... the connectors for the dimmer control which is part of the unit.

So, if the pot is reading no change in resistance, it is bad?

Thanks, Scott

But all of the bulbs wouldn't go out at the same time, right?

More likely a common wiring intersection (which appears to be the dimmer pot, to me), no?

Thanks, Scott

Ah, didn't notice it was ALL the lights. The dimmer does sound like it could be faulty by not changing resistance but

Went ahead and jumpered the live (red) wire past the dimmer and - behold - there was light on my dash and it was good. :)

So, a new switch is in order (since I like to be able to control its brightness).

Yes, the radio was aftermarket, but it is almost as old as the car.

Thanks, Scott

A new switch came with the same part number as the old, but the same problem as well!

No dash lights!

Any ideas?

I jumpered around the dimmer switch (30 to 58b) both behind and in front of the socket (and saw no visible corrosion) and got dash lights.

Measuring resistance between 58b and 58e gave me a constant 2k Ohms.... same as touching the probe ends together.

Help!

Thanks, Scott

turn the rheostat? :)

1. Calibrate or replace your meter. The meter should not indicate 2k ohms when you touch the probe ends together.
2. Did you intend to say 30 in one place and 58B in the other? I suspect so, since that would be an unusual typo. I don't have your wiring diagram.
3. When you say a constant 2k Ohms, are you saying that it does not change when you operate the switch/rheostat, but you expect it should?

1. Tried calibrating.... won't go down to 0. Seems to only want to calibrate on the infinity end.

1. Yes.... 30 is the hot (red) wire coming into the socket. 58b is the wire going out from the dimmer to the dash lights. 58e is another wire associated with the dimmer control.

2. I would assume that the resistance would vary when operating the dimmer.... perhaps it doesn't since there is some circuitry attached to the dimmer dial.

Just seems like bypassing the dimmer and getting light from all of my dash/shifter/radio/etc. internal lights indicates something wrong with the dimmer.

Thanks, Scott

Well, too much time on my hands led to a d'oh! discovery...

Apparently, I need glasses, as the fuse for the dash lights (#3) was really, really toasted. Not sure how I missed that the first time 'round, but a new fuse gave me my dimmable dash lights back.

Now, to figure out what's wrong with my ohm-meter...

Thanks all!