I have another question concerning my 91 S-10 Blazer. 4.3, auto, over
The Blazer goes into 4x4 as it should. But it does not want to come out of 4
When shifting back to 4x2, I have to stop, back up a few feet, and then the
things goes to 2 wheel drive and unlocks the hubs.
This is not a problem off roading, but on road, in places where the snow is
clear, or when pulling out onto a road that has been plowed, this is darned
Sometimes the 4x4 light goes out, but you can feel the front tires scrubbing
until I perform the stop, back up, go forward routine.
I have replace the rubber lines (vacuum leaks) and the actuator is new.
What am I missing?
The vacuum switch on the t-case. From the symptoms you describe that
may not be the problem. Have you tried letting it go a little longer
before deciding it's not unlocking? I know on my 94 and now my 2000
(both have push-button though) I have to continue driving a little bit
for the collar to slide off the axle in the diff. It's best if the
change is done while rolling but off the gas. Check the front diff
fluid level. if it's low it may not be lubing the sliding collar.
I have an 89 s-10
The VACCum Switch ontop of the Transfer Case Bad Quite ofter ( I
replaced 5 since 1989)
The last time Was 1995 and Then I Squirted Tranny Fluid into the
hole, Because I noticed that the Ball on the END of the SWITCH was
RUSTY.. ( There Was No Water in the TRANFER CASE.. I think it is JUST a
GM GOOFUP, Because the Hole is Normally DRY !!) My Son's 1987 did the
SAme thing till we Squirted oil into the Hole On Replacement of The
Switch AGAIN )
I Wud also Check the LEVEL of The Differental Also!!
And LET off The GAS AFTER you shift to 2 wheel Drive. and The 4 wheel
drive will kick out as you resume Speed.
That's normal, no need to stop and back up (although it helps). Pushing the
lever forward both disengages the t-case from the prop shaft and vents the
actuator to the front diff. Even though the little diagram is still lit up
and the front diff is still engaged to both wheels, as long as the little
light beside "2Hi" is lit you're not getting power to the front wheels and
not damaging anything. Try it on some gravel and see, you'll be able to spin
only the rears (well, one of 'em). The extra noise and vibes you feels are
from the prop shaft spinning with the front wheels (not the t-case). The
diff should unlock on it's own in a few minutes or so.
I live in southern WV. First, you need 4x4 while on snow here, as you are
pretty much going UP or DOWN all the time !
Many of the side roads, like where I live, are one lane. 4x4 is necessary,
but when you reach an intersection with the main road, it may be plowed
hours, if not days, ahead of the many small side roads.
So I need the 4x4 in bad weather. Often the roads will have clear spots.
That is what I meant.
One minute your in 6 inches of snow, the next 100 yards the wind has swept
the road clear, then back into the snow, often with little or no warning. If
you have ever driven southern WV you would know that you don't always see
this coming from any distance, sometimes it is literally just around the
Sorry if I was not clear on that. But leaving in 2wd in the snow is not
going to help me, as snow is one of the main reasons I need 4x4 in the first
place. If that were an option, I would just drive a car.
Thanks for the advice anyway.
The switch on the transfer case seems like a very likely suspect based on
the responses so far.
That all depends on the accuracy of the responses so far.
Are all the tire worn approximately the same? If you happen
to have two tires that are worn more then the other two, this
can often cause problems with shifting out of 4hi.
For this type of condition, I see no reason to switch out of 4x4.
Leave it in on the bare spots so long as you won't be making sharp
turns. If it's cold enough to have snow sticking around it may be
cold enough to make the bare surface just slick enough to provide the
needed slip. Also, pulling off your road while still in 4x4 shouldn't
be a problem.
1) My 'burb has an "Auto" mode. Sort of an on-demand 4wd, I think. Probably
not the most wonderful thing for the drivetrain if used all the time, but I
accidentally invoked it one summer day and drove 90 miles at 60-70 mph with no
apparent damage. Maybe yours has one too?
2) With the right tires, mine will navigate some pretty heavy snow. I'm using
Toyos right now. Last time we had significant snow I was crusing around on
unplowed streets w/18-24" of snow in 2WD.
4WD definately improved directional stability - in 2 WD it wants to follow some
of the ruts under the freshly-fallen snow...nothing uncontrollable, but it does
feel steadier in 4WD.
Personally, I like to make a game out of it - see how long I can go in 2WD
before I pull some bonehead move like turning uphill into a bunch of ruts and
getting myself stuck.
OTOH, if you've got a pickup truck with no extra weight over the rear axle
"don't try this at home" probably applies...
No auto mode. The 2wd suggestion is fine, but as I pointed out in another
post, southern WV is pretty much mountains. Up, or down. Pick one !
The up can be a problem sometimes.
The real pain is the front tire scrub that is going on until I get the thing
to kick out of 4x4. Runs fine other than that, though the truck is a bit
old and tired.
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