1984 Audi 4000S Quattro, rear girling/parking brake adjustment

Hi all,
I have a slight problem with my brakes. I have an '84 Audi 4000S Quattro and recently rebuilt both calipers on the right side. My brakes are single piston Girling all around. The ones in the rear
however have some sort of threaded piece that I could only imagine was related to the parking brake. I didn't put this back in all the way, but I put it most of the way, so the piston would fit. Now the plate on the bottom of the caliper that engages the parking brake will not move more than a little bit. I know that to retract the piston one has to push in and rotate at the same time, I forget exactly which direction, but this threaded piece was mostly smooth, so I'm not even sure how rotating the piston can even rotate this secondary piece. I was hoping someone had a procedure for adjusting this secondary piece. Or perhaps adjusting the parking brakes with this rear style girling brake. There must be a way. Even when the brakes worked the parking brake didn't hold very well, it'd stop the car, but couldn't hold back the car if I put it in gear.
Thanks for your help, Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Its not really clear to me what you have done on the rear caliper but, the threaded bit inside the caliper piston IS the E brake automatic adjustment. No other adjustment is possible if it is the same as the four T44s that I have owned.
I would suggest that you check the E brake actuator on the inside of the caliper. These tend to get corroded and gunked up. Clean, lub and work the part with a lever of some kind and it may get better.
Another common problem with the E brakes is that the cable becomes corroded where it leaves the cable just where it exits the interior and before it splits to the two sides. With quattro it can be quite a PITA to get at that location as it is above the rear half of the drive shaft.
One more thought is that you need to be sure that you got the caliper piston on the threaded inner rod. There are several tools available to assist in this task but a number of people make do with various common tools like needle nose pliers, allen wrenches and add in at least two and probably three beers and a lot of frustration. Still gratifying when you get it done.
TonyJ 98.5 A4 1.8TQM APR
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you for the information, I had already decided I'll just try to get some force on it somehow. I'm talking about the plate itself, I can't get the cable attatched since I need to move this plate more than it does currently.
About your final part, the piston wasn't threaded at all, so I'm confused by this, unless that secondary part that is threaded is supposed to 'hook in' to the piston somehow before I put it together? Making one unit that's a treaded piston?
And yes the outter plate that engages my emergency brake is very gunked up, I couldn't see how to remove it to properly clean it, but spraying the shaft and working it back and forth have not freed it much. The brake cable on the one side is bad and sticking, on this side the cables good, but the parking brake stays engaged because the plate is so gunked up the spring itself isn't strong enough to retract it.
Lastly I was curious how that second threaded piece self adjusts, when I move the plate it seems to shrink the chamber size and therefore exert pressure, I don't see any mechanically linkages or anything involved.
Thanks again, Chris
Tony wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You should try to free up the sticking cable on the other side.
I am a bit confused with your terminology. Don't know what you mean by 'plate'. I might guess that the plate you are referring to is the face of the piston in the caliper. If so that, the piston, is a real PITA to get started back in to its cylinder. There are several types that have either a couple of small holes or an allen wrench hole in them to assist in turning them at the same time they are being pushed in.
What needs to be done is to push the piston into the seals at the same time that it is being turned to engage the inner threads onto the threaded rod inside the cylinder. Car parts stores well a small cube that should fit which is then turned with a socket wrench drive to get it done.
Once started you need to turn the piston in most of the way so that the caliper will fit over the new brake pads.
Hope this helps.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The plate you are referring to is to actuate the handbrake mechanism. It does get corroded and needs some cleaning up with emery cloth. As for it not moving, did you replace the spring?
Tony 96 S6
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.