1984 Audi 4000S Quattro, rear girling/parking brake adjustment

Its not really clear to me what you have done on the rear caliper but, the threaded bit inside the caliper piston IS the E brake automatic adjustment. No other adjustment is possible if it is the same as the four T44s that I have owned.

I would suggest that you check the E brake actuator on the inside of the caliper. These tend to get corroded and gunked up. Clean, lub and work the part with a lever of some kind and it may get better.

Another common problem with the E brakes is that the cable becomes corroded where it leaves the cable just where it exits the interior and before it splits to the two sides. With quattro it can be quite a PITA to get at that location as it is above the rear half of the drive shaft.

One more thought is that you need to be sure that you got the caliper piston on the threaded inner rod. There are several tools available to assist in this task but a number of people make do with various common tools like needle nose pliers, allen wrenches and add in at least two and probably three beers and a lot of frustration. Still gratifying when you get it done.

TonyJ

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Thank you for the information, I had already decided I'll just try to get some force on it somehow. I'm talking about the plate itself, I can't get the cable attatched since I need to move this plate more than it does currently.

About your final part, the piston wasn't threaded at all, so I'm confused by this, unless that secondary part that is threaded is supposed to 'hook in' to the piston somehow before I put it together? Making one unit that's a treaded piston?

And yes the outter plate that engages my emergency brake is very gunked up, I couldn't see how to remove it to properly clean it, but spraying the shaft and working it back and forth have not freed it much. The brake cable on the one side is bad and sticking, on this side the cables good, but the parking brake stays engaged because the plate is so gunked up the spring itself isn't strong enough to retract it.

Lastly I was curious how that second threaded piece self adjusts, when I move the plate it seems to shrink the chamber size and therefore exert pressure, I don't see any mechanically linkages or anything involved.

Thanks aga> Its not really clear to me what you have done on the rear caliper but, the

You should try to free up the sticking cable on the other side.

I am a bit confused with your terminology. Don't know what you mean by 'plate'. I might guess that the plate you are referring to is the face of the piston in the caliper. If so that, the piston, is a real PITA to get started back in to its cylinder. There are several types that have either a couple of small holes or an allen wrench hole in them to assist in turning them at the same time they are being pushed in.

What needs to be done is to push the piston into the seals at the same time that it is being turned to engage the inner threads onto the threaded rod inside the cylinder. Car parts stores well a small cube that should fit which is then turned with a socket wrench drive to get it done.

Once started you need to turn the piston in most of the way so that the caliper will fit over the new brake pads.

H> Thank you for the information, I had already decided I'll just try to

The plate you are referring to is to actuate the handbrake mechanism. It does get corroded and needs some cleaning up with emery cloth. As for it not moving, did you replace the spring?

Tony