87 325es no torque/performance

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I just purchased a 87 325es, car is in great shape, only 113k on it, and had a lot of engine work done on it before I purchased it. The problem is the car seems to have no torque or preformance. It can't
pull itself up a hill unless you're in a low gear, and have the RPM's high, even then it is almost impossible to accelerate up a hill. When the car is underload(going up hill) with the throttle wide open it will maintain RPMs but not increase them.
The previous owner had this to say: The engine was causing all sorts of backfire in the exhaust.There was a lot of 'throwing parts' at the problem, which accounted for most of the time. It ended up being a partially jammed injector that was leaking fuel during the exhaust cycle on one of the cylinders. All 6 injectors have been replaced along with (this is as much as I can remember, but I'm sure there's more):
Spark Plugs (Bosch Quad Fires on all 6 Cylinders) Distributor Cap Plug Wires Temp Sensor Fly Wheel Sensor EFI Computers Exhaust Manifold Cold Air Intake boot Gaskets on Intake, Exhaust, Head
Long Story Short, the engine wasn't fully rebuilt, just Head, Intake and Exhaust work done. The Cylinders were all checked for compression, and my Mechanic says all 6 are at or above BMW spec. In addition to that, it just had it's valves adjusted (once it was running right).
So that's where I am at, any suggestions on what could be the problem, or if there is a problem would much apperciated.
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I'd try a new fuel filter. I'd also test the fuel pressure, our Alpina B10 had a fault like this and we found it to be a dying fuel pump.
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Email: snipped-for-privacy@unixnerd.demon.co.uk, John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
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Have you checked the valve timing? Mike.
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My thoughts too. It's all too easy to get the belt a notch out on these engines.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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wrote:

Thank you for the suggestions so far. Would there not be any other indicator that the valve timing was off? The car runs great, idles, and rev's smoothly. Just has nothing there when underload.
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It runs great but not under load? ;-)
Other symptom would be heavy fuel consumption - but then you'd not know what to expect with this car anyway having just bought it.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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wrote:

haha - I understand your point. Mine was that it remains smooth, and not like it's out of time. However, the sympton of heavy fuel consumption is very helpful, as my initial feeling is that is the case as well. I've only driven about 50 miles, and have used a half tank of gas. Being that everyone says you should be getting mid to high 20's mpg I would think this is high consumption (if the gauge is correct). What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is the valve timing?
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wrote:

What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is

Could depend upon where you bought it. If from a dealer, take it back and let him sort it. Explain the problem, telling him you suspect the valve timing is out. If bought privately, either take it to an independant mechanic, telling him the same, and would he check and retime it if necessary. Or, buy a Haynes manual and DIY if you feel competent. Mike.
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Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go ahead and replace the timing belt, since I keep reading that it should be done every 50k miles or so? As I don't know when if ever it's been replaced, any other maintance I should preform while I have it this far torn down?
Thanks again!
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On 20 Mar 2007 06:37:45 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Bognor Regis, W.Sussex, England, UK
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wrote:

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the head was replaced. For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're not expensive compared to the cost if either fails. Mike.
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Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source to order from?
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http://www.gsfcarparts.com / Timing belt 7.25 Tensioner 11.00
Or they're about the same price from :- http://www.eurocarparts.com /
Personally I'd go for genuine parts. No doubt they'll cost more, but I'd feel happier because they're such critical parts.
You get the part No's from :- http://www.realoem.com/bmw / Then ring your local BMW dealer for a quote. Mike.
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Mike G wrote:

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy a Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the shelf for 10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I guess try to find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.
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wrote in message

There are many BMW OE parts that are not made by BMW, but I would suggest it's far easier to buy an OE timing belt from BMW, than look for a specific make from an auto factor. Mike.
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Mike G wrote:

Oh I know. It's wicked hard. Any of the WorldPac online parts places tell you the manufacturer of the part. Like this one for example. It took me less than a minute to find:
http://catalog.worldpac.com/smittys/sa/wizard.jsp?partner=smittys&clientid=sasponline.com&baseurl=http://www.sasponline.com/&cookieid !M0K5NOA21M0K5ZGA&year87&make=BM&model25-ES-001&category=A&part=Timing+Belt
or
http://tinyurl.com/3aujqc
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Both the OP and myself are in the UK. Things work a little differently over here. Unless you ask specifically at an auto factors, you're unlikely to be told the maker for spares. I still maintain that the 'easiest' way to get genuine parts is to buy from a BMW dealer Mike.
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Mike G wrote:

Ah. sorry about that. I normally pick up on that sort of thing from the conversation. You know, those funny language terms you "blokes" use... ;-)
I guess it sucks to be you guys? Having to pay stealer rates for car parts on a 1987 would just about do me in...
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You don't have to. There are at least two decent specialists that Mike mentioned and things like cambelts easily sourced from near any motor factor or even chain store. My brother runs an E28 and I don't think he knows where his dealer is. Scrap yards, yes. ;-)
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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London SW

My guess about valve timing was based on the fact that the head had been reconditioned. Given that otherwise the engine appears to be mechanically sound, wrong valve timing can easily give the symptoms you describe. Engines are surprisingly tolerant of valve timing being a tooth or two out. They'll tickover and rev quite happily, but the power loss is usually quite significant. Mike.
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