So I posted before saying that my clutch was sort of shuddering when I
was engagaing the clutch. I really only noticed this when I was down
shifting butit seems to be doing this when Im shifting up as well. Its
only when I am engaging the clutch. I dont know too much about cars but
I'd like to think its when the 2 plates begin touching all the way
until they are fully engaged. Also it seems like if I give it more gas
then I regularily would it doesnt do it. So could something be loose?
I have no idea what it owuld be but thats what it sort of feels like.
I am certain though that Im giving it enough gas so its not like Im
stalling the motor and the car is shaking. It totally feels like
something is loose. Any ideas? Id sor to flike a general idea before
I take it in. Maybe how much it might cost to fix it as well. Should
I take to a BMW dealer or just a normal garage? I dont want to pay
alot just to have it looked at.
The most common reason for a clutch to start shuddering or 'juddering' as
some people say is because the clutch surface is being contaminated with
oil. The oil gets fried by the heat generated by the friction of normal use
and turns into a sticky mess that is not conducive to smooth operation of
the clutch. This oil can come from either the rear main seal of the engine
or, more likely, from the front seal on the transmission. I had this happen
on my e30 '84 318i several years ago and the shaking became quite violent
before I was sure enough of the source of the problem to tear it apart.
Early in the development of the problem I could prevent it from happening by
increasing the revs and nursing the clutch out very slowly but eventually
this technique no longer worked and if it shuddered at high revs it shook so
badly I thought the wheels were hopping off the ground. My 318i had 256k
miles on it at the time this happened so it seems to me that your car
doesn't really have enough miles on it for this to be happening but it is
fairly easy to damage this oil seal during installation as it must be
slipped on over the splined input shaft of the transmission. It only takes
a little burr on the spline to score the lip of the seal and you're in for
trouble. It's a pretty major operation to replace the seal as you have to
remove the transmission to get at it so I wouldn't be in any great hurry to
do it. Eventually it will ruin the damping springs on the clutch disk but
that would have to be replaced anyway. If you wait a little longer and it
keeps getting worse I would be fairly certain that this is your problem. I
would guess that it would probably cost over $1000 to have this fixed at the
dealer. You can call and they will give you their flat rate for replacing a
clutch. I had my flywheel reground as well because I couldn't seem to get
the surface discoloration off with solvents and scotchbrite so that might
add another hundred bucks it they decide you need that too.
Shuddering can have a number of causes. Poor fitting of the clutch unit
resulting in deformation - although this would probably show from new.
Worn or broken parts of the clutch. More likely oil on the linings from
either the gearbox or engine - the engine being the most likely. Possibly
even broken engine/gearbox mountings or torque reaction ties where fitted.
Unfortunately, most of these require access to the clutch to rectify,
which means removing the gearbox or engine.
*I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow *
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
I agree. Gearbox and engine mountings usually only show symptoms when
pulling away. Contamination can sometimes be helped by slipping the
clutch like trying to pull away in top etc to burn off any oil but it's
usually only temporary. Early E36s had a problem with the the clutch
when it got hot and you have to live with it or fit a new clutch.
Sometimes the dual-mass flywheel springs get old and worn and can cause
Is there anyway to determine if my engine mounts are bad? For some
reason I want to lean toward that because I notice sometimes with the
clutch fully engaged and under heavy acceleration in fourth it almost
seems a little shaky. Would that be the engine mounts?
Thanks - jon
Could be your propshaft bearing - that might give you the shakes on
changes too. Engine/gearbox mounts are usually noticed on sudden
changes so sudden acceleration or lifting off. Or in some cases
shifting into third when you wanted 5th :-)
yeah .. one way to tell if it is your mount though is buy getting a pry
bar and reafing (gentaly) on some sturdy parts neer the mounts and
seeing if they disloge .if you notice it only when you are accelerating
and not in normal driving then it is most likely mounts . if it is in
all gears and all the time then id have to agree on the axl berring as
well . however if it only does it in some gears or more than others
then it could even be your gearbox
My '95 318ti has 90k on it. The clutch works like a dream unless the car
has been run for a while. Then shudder will be present but only when
starting out from first gear (especially when on a hill). I increase the
revs a little and that seems to help.
The shuddering problem has been present since day one. I will be needing a
new clutch at some point soon and hopefully the problem will be resolved.
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