Help Help Turn Signal Problems

The Right turn signal is blinking fast so it's acting like the bulb is burned out. Got new bulbs but, still not working. Checked the bulb port with a multimeter and the wires from the right side to the post connector under
the Left side of the P/U all check out ok the wires are good. Checked the wires from the port to the fuse box on the drivers side it was #10 fuse port that check out ok. The Turn/Flasher Relay is clicking so I assume it's not that? I have just run out of was to check this out. The brake light and turn signal are the two things not working, turning on the reg. lights... it comes on. It just won't blink or get bright when I hit the brakes. I've been trying to figure this out for about 2 wks. I just don't want to take it to the shop and pay $$$ for something that's going to be simple to fix or so I thought... LOL. Any help would be great, and thanks.
Ree
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "The only thing that stands between a man and what he wants from life is often merely the will to try it and the faith to believe that it is possible." -- Richard M. DeVos
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Here's my other info I forgot to post I have a 98 Chevy S-10 P/U 4CL 2WD
Ree

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Something else that's cheap to try is the ground. The complete circuit goes from the positive post of the battery, through the flasher, through the turn signal switch, through the wire, through the bulb, and through the body back to the negative post of the battery. Back about the 1920s somebody said since the body and frame are steel and steel conducts electricity, we can use it to complete the circuit, rather than run another wire back to the battery. The economics are right. However, sometimes it doesn't work if some parts of the bolted together body and frame get loose or corroded. I'm a little surprised, given the age of your vehicle. However, it's easy and cheap to check, and you and I like that.
Figure out how the turn signal assembly is grounded. The assembly may be screwed into a metal frame or something. Run a temporary wire (16-18 gauge copper--cheap) from that point directly to the negative post of the battery and see if it fixes the problem. If it does, then figure out how you're going to fix it permanently. Also look around for ground straps. Consider taking them loose, one at a time, and cleaning the point where they attach. I usually put a thin layer of grease on the cleaned surface. When I tighten it down, the grease gets squeezed out of the points of contact, I get a good connection, and the grease keeps moisture from getting in.
Since you specified the right turn signal, I'm going to suppose you mean the left one works okay. If so, that means you haven't switched turn signal flashers lately. A fast flashing rate often means a person put a flasher designed for the older bulbs (was it 1034?) into a vehicle that uses the newer high current bulbs (1158 for the bayonet base) or added a few lamps to the circuit. You see it when somebody pulls a trailer and doesn't switch to a heavy-duty flasher. However, if the left side is working, this doesn't explain it very well.
Good luck! Let us know what fixed it.
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Also:
When you are checking the ground as myford suggested, sometimes a socket can become internally shorted, and light both filaments of a bulb.
With the socket out and the blinker on, look at both the front and rear lamps. See if both filaments are lighting. This might be the cause. If you in fact see both filaments lighting, then you can look at the black wire from the socket, to where it's bolted to the body or frame for a good connection. if the connection is good, you have an internally shorted socket. Causing both filaments to light up, and overloading the flasher when you use the turn signal on that side.
I hope this helps?
Refinish King

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