Loose rearview mirror on C6

I just had the windshield replaced on my 2005 C6 and now the mirror is loose and and wobbles up and down going over even small bumps. The guy that did
the work did a beautiful job on the windshield but I'm not sure about his knowledge on this problem. There is lots of discussion on the Corvette forum about this same problem. Can any one here add some helpful tips? Dad? Thanks, Ron Stewart Santa Rosa, Ca
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You're screwed. The window man leaned and/on or rotated the mirror while pushing down on it and sheared out the die casting's snap ring groove. It can be fixed by removing it and recutting the groove a bit wider/deeper and using a bigger snap ring. Big hassle and may still lead to a new mirror. The last C5 I did was not worth the effort (she hit the garage door while backing out) as it doesn't have enough metal to use 2 snap rings and a wave washer that was require. Had to epoxy the top snap ring in to keep it solid.
Window service owes you a mirror.
By the way the other C5 had it folded back and forth ever time it was put in/out of the garage for over 2 years.

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Dad,
Are you reading something more into Ron's post? From his description of the problem I take that he's talking about the REAR view mirror mounted to the windshield, rather than the side view mirror which is what you seem to be talking about.
Sounds like Ron's problem is that the mirror assembly isn't snugged tight to the metal button fastened to the glass. Ron? How about fabricating a plastic shim of some sort to snug it up if you can't get it tight with the hex head screw?
On 12/13/2012 1:44 PM, Dad wrote:

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Good catch. If it is the inside mirror it has no set screw. To seat it pull parallel to the windshield towards the dash and rock it back and forth until you hear a click. Removal is done in the reverse and it can be a bad clip since it is removed by doing the rock back and forth while pulling up in the same incline as the windshield. There is more than one warning about NOT pulling towards the back.
Thanks for the heads up Confused, I was relating to the whining on CF about the poor C5 mirrors and I haven't been back there in years so they could have been talking about the inside mirror and I wouldn't have seen it.

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Good news! I drove out to the shop that installed the windshield and showed him the loose mirror. He took it off the windshield, took into his shop and took it apart, took out the bent pins and straightend them. Put it all back together and back onto it's mount on the glass. Now it is stable and just fine. He told me he has had similar problems with this on Volvos, who use a similar design. I told him about one of the guys on the forum who makes new pins out of 7/64"dia. drill shanks. He said he would keep that in mind. I'm guessing the soft metal pins might be needed for safety reasons to meet government crash requirements to ensure the mirror breaks before it breaks someone's head. Thanks for the quick response to my post. Ron

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That should be 5/64" not 7/64". Ron

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On 12/14/2012 2:59 PM, Ron Stewart wrote:

That's our government. Brilliance in considering the plight of the center seat passengers in our Corvettes<g>

Glad to hear that it all worked out. I based my answer on my experiences with the C4 and C5 (I think I tightened the mirror mount on the C5 - not sure)
Learned something new from Dad (and you) about the C6. If I ever get one, I'll...
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WOW, metal pins in a car made in the USA, whoda thunk it? The way the manual reads I expected it to be a plastic detent of some sort.
I changed windshields/glass back in the late 50s/60s while going to college and there are just gobs of things that can go wrong. A guy that had a Fingerhut in Toledo started doing mobile changes like they all do now. What a learning experience, it got to where we were not allowed to touch a dirty or wet car because you couldn't see if there was any other damage and they would come back on us to fix it. The one that really ripped my boss was a small piece of locating masking tape was left on a windshield and they made us drive back out and pull it off. Ahhh the good old days.
For your continued learning experiance for both the C5 & the C6 here's a list of things which a lot of people don't know, whether or not they're in the manual, copied from one or more of the Corvette groups.
-The C6 has front and rear brake cooling ducts beneath the car. They use high pressure areas to bring air to the low pressure areas where the brakes are.
-The button between the "1" and "2" buttons on the door is for easy exit/entry.
-The doors have a manual release located near the floor.
-The C6 can be entered by using the provided key in the lock above the rear license plate.
-The C6 can be started by placing the fob in the hidden receptacle in the glove box.
-The Automatic transmission has programming to hold gears while cornering.
-To get the dash to dim, you need to hold the dimmer switch in when rotated! The book does not tell you to push it in prior to rotation for the dimming.
-To get the garage door opener programmed when you have a variable code opener like Sears sells, you need to press the learn button on the unit then push the opener button in the C6 3 times for 2 seconds and it picks up the code. The book does not state that however if you go to the web site it will tell you how to address this problem.
-The holes on the inside surface of the exhaust tips are to eliminate high-RPM hiss.
-Turn the light switch one notch up from "auto" and then release to turn off the DRLs.
-Moving the turn signal lever part way and then releasing it will cause the lights to blink three times. This is for lane changes.
-To fully turn off traction control, you must press the button twice.
-If your window does not roll up or down that little bit at the top (indexing) then it may need to be set. This is explained in the user's manual, but involves holding the window down for 5 seconds using the switch and then holding it all the way to the top for 5 seconds using the switch. -Condition/Concern:
Some customers may state that the clock reads in 24 hour time (military time) on vehicles equipped with the RPO US8 or US9 radios.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the customer wishes to switch between military time and the 12 hour clock., please follow the following procedure:
Press and hold the hours button for 2-3 seconds.
Turn the radio tuner knob left or right to toggle between military time and regular time. Turn the tuner knob to the desired setting and let go of knob for 30 seconds for the change to occur.
Note: The Navigation radio (RPO U3U) can be changed from military time to regular time by accessing the clock menu.
This list is for the C5 secrets: 1. The little yellow "helper light" on the bottom of the rear-view mirror that illuminates the shifter area. 2. That you can put your key in the driver's door and turn it twice towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to pop the trunk. 3. That you can pop the trunk and also pop the gas cap cover by pulling on metal lines hidden in the back. 4. That the little slotted cover on the dash behind the steering wheel is where the inside air temperature sensor is located. 5. All of the option codes are in the glove box. And if they aren't there, look on the underside of the rear compartment lid (passenger side, I think). 6. Tire inflation recommended pressures are on the driver's door (don't laugh, this comes up a lot). 7. The thing that looks like a little LED near the DIC buttons is a light sensor. 8. The thing that looks like a little LED near the defroster vent is a UV sensor for determining A/C usage to compensate for the heating effect of the sun. 9. Your build sheet is in the front re-bar, your front bumper cover must be pulled for access! 10. When the engine is shut off, you can get the odometer reading by turning on the parking lights. 11. You can program setting #3 (both memory buttons at once) in the seat memory to run the seat back and steering wheel forward for getting in/out of the car with the engine running. 12. Reset oil life by pumping gas pedal 3 times (but not with the engine running). 13. Hold down RESET button while on one of the trip odometers and it gives you the mileage you traveled since last starting the car. 14. Hold down the Active Handling button for 5 sec. to engage "Competitive Driving" (2000 and previous years must be stopped.) 15. If you hate DRLs you can pull the e-brake ONE click and they go off.... 16. Simply remove fuse #2 under the hood and your DRLs will be out permanently. Only thing affected is that when you unlock at night using the key fob your front turn signal lights and back up lights will not flash. You front turn signals will operate normally. GO STEALTH and extend the life of your front turn signal bulbs (changing them out is not picnic). 17. The side-view mirrors can twist both forward and backward, decreasing the chance of damage if struck. 18. If you pull the seatbelts all the way out while you're buckled in, they ratchet back in to hold you tighter into the seat (that's how the owner's video describes this feature) 19. The parking brake is self-adjusting... but depends on the car rolling or wanting to roll backward to work. Not mentioned in the owners manual (looked for it). 20. I didn't realize there is a red LED light on the left side of the radio so I had one installed to work when the security system is on. Someone told me to program the radio theft lock feature and that initiated the LED flashing. Now I have two of them flashing when the security system is on. 21. There is a release opening with a flap to let air out of the car when the hatch is closed. It is located just above the driver side rear compartment, behind the panel. 22. There is a spot on the driver side just out of the middle compartment under the carpet for the lug nut key. You should have a compartment on the drivers & passenger's side (in the trunk) and a center compartment. On the left (drivers) side of the center compartment, on the left side where the center cover fits, there is an 'indent' that holds the wheel lock key. 23. The bolts that hold the disk changer in the car, when installed from the factory cannot be removed. They have to be cut off. 24. You can ground your amp to a screw/bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame. 25. If you turn on the headlights, then go to parking light position quickly, the lamps remain up but the headlights are not burning - this is for washing the lights. 26. If you have a 6-speed car you can pop the trunk when the car is running by lifting the e-brake. 27. On my Z06, the interior illumination light (the light that shines down from the rear-view mirror) is blue-ish and it will turn to a yellow color by sliding a colored lens over the lamp opening (no sheezot!) - I am not sure why this happens but the light does illuminate the console/shifter area. 28. Also not listed here, but the good CorvetteForum folks schooled me on this - if you go to comp-mode on the DIC, you can just hit reset to go back to displaying whatever mode you were in (fuel, odom etc.) and the comp-mode will still be activated. 29. If you have the passive entry feature: If you lock your keys in the car, wait a few minutes and then shake the car. That will unlock the car. 30. HUD has a shift light for manuals. 31. You can easily shift the M6 trans up or down without the clutch if you match revs. (Not great for longevity, however.) 32. You can eject the CD from the in-dash player without turning on any power. Don't even need key in the ignition. 33. The cruise will disengage if you purposely make sharp side to side turns while cruising at say 60-80 mph. 34. When the engine is shut off, you can get the odometer reading by turning on the parking lights. 35. HUD has a shift light for A4's too... it comes on during a WOT run just before it shifts! 36. With the engine off, opening the glovebox automatically turns on interior lighting. 37. You have 20 minutes of auxillary power after shutting the car off. 38. There a key combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the car has thrown without autotap, etc. That combination is as follows: . Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the car. . Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button. . Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue. . Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES". . To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". . Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module.
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Dad wrote:

I knew most of these about the C6...especially the one about sticking the fob in the glove box receptacle - when I got my Z06 I started reading the owners manual .pdf before I even sent the check and received the car.
That knowledge served me well when my fob died on me during a trip to Vegas...the car is a 2008 and even though it only had 4100 miles on it when I bought it the fob battery was three years old at least. So it died on me at a gas station...and I had to use a few of these tricks to get myself to a drug store and buy another fob battery. Now I carry a spare one in the rear box.
I've since schooled at least one other C6 owner on this one...and the key slot over the license plate. Now if I could learn to shift a six speed smoother...
--
- Rufus

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. There is one little quirk about the C6 that still catches me and if I remember right it got me once in the C5. The interior light knob on the lower left dash can be bumped by your knee and turn the interior lights on. For some reason they will not time out when turned on there and it has killed the battery twice. I've not tried to duplicate it yet to pissed to have to go through the restarting/charging process when I wanted to be driving it.
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Dad wrote:

The way I sit in the car I can't hit that knob with my knee, but I could definitely see how I could do that with the back of my hand coming off the turn signal lever or climbing out pushing off of the steering wheel behind me.
And that also was the initial indication of my fob battery dying - I got out of the car and the interior lights didn't fade as I walked away from it...I forget how I got them to turn off, I think I started and shut down the car sitting in it a couple times - there was just enough juice left in the fob battery for the fob to be recognized if I was actually *in* the car. But later when I stopped for gas it was totally dead and I had to plug it in.
...was funny...some girls walked by and shouted "nice car!"...and I thought to myself - "wish I could start it"...then I remembered how. I'd only had it a few months at that time.
--
- Rufus

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On Thursday, December 13, 2012 at 1:51:49 PM UTC-5, Ron Stewart wrote:

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My mirror was sagging, one of the fingers that goes around the pivot ball w as broken and the snap ring would not stay on. I screwed a black screw next to the snap ring so the head of the screw held it in place, I put another one across from it to maintain the ring placement, put it back on, it was b etter but it eventually sag again. Some guys used silastic or foam rubber a nd still had problems. Then a light flashed, I placed a small balloon over the ball,this gave it some thickness and drag, works fine, can move it easi ly but it will stay where I put it.
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