I have a 1997 camaro V6 and I want to store it in an underground parking for
the winter (it's in canada so probably for about 5-6 months!!). I was
wondering what are the important things that I have to do before and after
restoring. This is the first car that I want to store and as I don't have
that much experience and knowledge, any help and advise would be
Thanks in advance
Change the oil, clean out/vacuum out the car, get some dessicant packs
to absorb water, wash the car, add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer, mothballs
around (and in if you can take the stink in 6 months) the car to keep
the rodents, cats etc from making a warm winters nest, and cover the car
with a decent cover. Even if indoors.
Don't worry about the tires flatspotting as radials should not flatspot
**as long as they're properly inflated!**
Change the oil? old oil has a different freezing point then new? your
enemie is rust and the batterie cant stand beeing left uncharged so long.
So.... how dry and/or warm is the garage. if its heated thats all you
need, if not, keep it dry and charge the battery every now and then.
Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer? bla bla bla, only diesel can clog under
certain temparature and if you want to be sure, store in with an (almost)
empty tank and fill it after the winter with fresh gasoline, in stead of
the expensive bull.... they want to sell you
All the other things are normal, if you take care of your car.
"NOx (Nitrous Oxide) from blow-by residing in the oil combines with water to
form nitric acid which eventually overwhelms the additives included to
neutralize such nastiness. The nitric acid then begins to etch your various
bearing surfaces, which will wear quite a bit more rapidly than they will in
an engine with regular oil changes. Basically... fresh oil is cheap
insurance. The used oil could harm the cam shafts, gears and bearings
harshly by etching."
"Motor gasolines may be stored up to six months, consequently they must not
form gums which may precipitate. Reactions of the unsaturated HCs may
produce gums (these reactions can be catalysed by metals such as copper), so
antioxidants and metal deactivators are added. Existent Gum is used to
measure the gum in the fuel at the time tested, whereas the Oxidation
Stability measures the time it takes for the gasoline to break down at 100C
with 100psi of oxygen. A 240 minute test period has been found to be
sufficient for most storage and distribution systems."
"Stale Fuel: Gasoline in a vented fuel tank can go stale within 60 days.
Stale gas smells like varnish and leaves "gummy" deposits that clog the tiny
jets of the engine's carburetor. If your engine has been sitting up with
stale gasoline in the fuel tank your carburetor may require a soaking in
carburetor cleaner to remove these deposits. Remove all rubber pieces
including the throttle shaft seal (o-ring) before soaking. After the
carburetor is free of all bad gas deposits it should be reinstalled with new
gaskets in place. Make sure your fuel tank is clean and free of stale gas as
"One caution, however: If your fuel system has spent years clogging itself
up with gum and varnish, you may experience problems if you suddenly try to
clean it with additives. Oh, the additives will work all right, but imagine
what happens to the fuel filters when years of goop suddenly soughs off the
walls of the fuel tank and fuel lines and works its way toward the engine.
Some folks have reported repeated fuel filter clogs on a single trip! So, if
you decide to scour your fuel system, load up on a supply of replacement
fuel filters ahead of time, and plan on unexpected roadside maintenance
stops to replace clogged filters."
I agree with Jimmy. And I have some additional thoughts. You live up
north, so store with a full tank with a stabilizer. If you store with a
partial tank, the water will separate and can rust your tank. Be sure
to run the car long enough after adding stabilizer to get the mix up to
the carb/injectors. I try to change the oil before going into storage
to get the contaminants out. (My buddy changes the oil when coming out
of storage. He says that dust can collect during storage, because the
engine is not air-tight.)
A normal lead-acid battery won't handle many complete discharges before
going bad. I'd suggest either charging your battery on a regular basis,
or replace it with a deep-cycle. Disconnect and clean it in any case.
I wouldn't worry about getting flat-spots in the tires either. I had my
'67 parked for 3 years, when it came time to move it rolled just fine.
I know some guys who put their cars up on stands anyway, to let the
All I've ever done with my TA is:
****record your theftloc code or disable it****
I leave the windows open a crack for ventilation.
pull the battery -> either trickle charge it and/or I swap it around in
my winter car so it gets some use.
can of fuel stabilizer and a full tank of gas.
I change the oil before storage so it's fresh and asap after it comes
out. (overkill, but it's my $)
I put the car on 4 jack stands - under the suspension, so the car sits
normal (not under the frame with the suspension drooping) - probably
overkill, but I'm not worried about flatspots so much as I'm worried
about the tire going flat and cracking the sidewall or something.
Wash and wax it and cover it.
Put the GM weatherstripping lube on (see your manual for the PN.)
That's it. I also used to put rags in the exhaust for mice but now I
figure when I start it it'll blow them out...
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