1993 Taurus GL. 3.0 Engine Bucking..Fuel?

I have a 1993 Taurus and is bucking or hessitating to varing degerees with no aparent ryme or reason. I would like to try and change the fuel filter. is this hard or is it easy.
Or is there a better way of testing the fuel pressure perhaps? I did put in New Cap, Rotor, Plugs. Pretty sure it s not wires, i look at night with engine runing and cant see any arcing. Anyone got any good ideas on this? please let me know.
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news wrote:

the trunk and disconnected the inertia switch on the driver side about mid way up, pull back the carpet and look for it. i disconnected the wires to it and ran the engine for about 5 seconds until it burned up the gas that was in there.. that cut down the pressure of the gas so it does not get all over you when changing it... jacked up the rt. rear tire a little bit and got under the car with a flat blade screw driver pulled out the plastic clips(also used some long thin needle nose pliers on the clips... and a small(cant remembr the size of the socket on the bolt that holds the filter on the frame... made a note of what end went where and put new one on with the two new clips that came in the package with the new filter... reattached the inertia switch and cranked engine and it started right up... took about 20 minutes.....
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Ok jim, so from what you sayin its undrneeth? or is it in that compartment neart the inerta switch.
Does my symptoms sound similar to what you had with yours?

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news wrote:

plugs and the filter.. it was missing and when i was finished it had about 4 wires in the wrong places so i dont know how the car started.. after pulling off all the wires and putting them on correctly the car ran like new.. no miss anyplace... the filter is under the passenger side rear area under the car... on the rail(frame member ) the filter is not in the trunk near the inertia switch....hope this helps.
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Ok sounds like a plan. But can you tell me if you feel that the problem was indeed the Fuel filter? or was that just one of many things you replaced along the way.
My next approach is the to test the MAF sensor and the Air bypass gizmo.
PS Jim, i tried to send you an e-mail directly but the supplied E-amil addy is no good. snipped-for-privacy@noname.com Could you send me a working e-mail please? in not, we can cheat here. its just that me news server has Very poor retension time. 4-5 days at best.

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FIXED --to anybody who was following this thread.
So I broke down and picked up some Spark plug wires from the Autozone, chose the double layered silicone, $20.00 they even came with some Dielectric grease at the ends of the boot, a nice touch Fired it up again and that was it. the Friggin Spark plug wires were shot. I had to see what the resistance was on the old set, on the shortest one the coil wire. resistence was about 4Kohms, the longer wires were around 7.5Kohms One of the long ones was 9.5Kohms and the real Bastard was one wire which was OPEN, Infinate, in other words Funngoo. N.F.G. Outta here, Etc... The long wire of from the new set read about 7.5Kohms. so for the most part they were ok, just the open one really doing the damage. Thank to all for your input and tips. They were all usefull and very educating.

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