1994 thunderbird, possible tranny problem?

I have a 94 t-bird with the 4.6L v8. The check engine light has been on. It is shifting very odd. Sometimes the engine will rev high and the tranny hesitates
to shift for a couple seconds then hits hard. Today while cruising around 45 mph it was shaking, seemed like tranny was engaging then disengaging back and forth. Sometimes it runs great, than sometimes it revs up to almost 4000 rpm before it will shift. Once in a while when I step on the gas hard, it takes about two or three seconds before the tranny will engage, it used to take off right away. I do have a problem with the engine as well, maybe just o2 sensors, it dosen't idle smooth and when in gear and not moving it almost stalls but recovers. I have a noise coming from under the center console where the tranny is. It only makes the noise when I am accelerating, as soon as I let off the gas most of it goes away. Does any one have an idea what this mess could be?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jere wrote:

shifting very odd. Sometimes the engine will rev high and the tranny hesitates to shift for a couple seconds then hits hard. Today while cruising around 45 mph it was shaking, seemed like tranny was engaging then disengaging back and forth. Sometimes it runs great, than sometimes it revs up to almost 4000 rpm before it will shift. Once in a while when I step on the gas hard, it takes about two or three seconds before the tranny will engage, it used to take off right away. I do have a problem with the engine as well, maybe just o2 sensors, it dosen't idle smooth and when in gear and not moving it almost stalls but recovers. I have a noise coming from under the center console where the tranny is. It only makes the noise when I am accelerating, as soon as I let off the gas most of it goes away. Does any one have an idea what this mess could be?

Been there done that, same car.
It's nothing that about $2200 won't fix. The T-Birds and Taurus's of around that vintage have crappy transmissions. If you get it in for repair when the symptoms FIRST appear it's a cheaper fix. Sounds like your situation has gone too far for the cheap fix.
What I believe I have been told about those transmissions is that some part receives inadequate fluid dispersal, hence insufficient cooling. The failure of that part contributes to slippage of the clutches. When the clutches burn up is where it gets expensive.
Note that I qualified the preceding paragraph lest someone in this newsgroup feels the need to tell me I'm full of burnt transmission fluid. Aww, someone will probably do it anyway. I've been around usenet long enough to know the score. :)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
i had a very simular thing happen to my trans and after several people telling me it's a crapped up internal problem and two shops quoting me anywhere from 1000 to 2000 grand ,after several tips from the internet and a dealer friend ,i found out that most electronic trans have 3 shift solinoids that can produce the same symtoms,they are accessable from taking the pan off and are around 15 bucks each,another problem(that happened to be my problem)was i was able to pull a code PO500 from the computer(flashing OD light and check engine light) and it was the VSS ,it will produce eratic shifting at times,sluggish shifts,flashing engine lights,no shifting,etc.i replaced it at $38,funny the trans shops could not detect this with all thier high end expensive equipment, i guess i didn't pay for the owners mercedes payment that month,nice try trans shops.

hesitates to shift for a couple seconds then hits hard. Today while cruising around 45 mph it was shaking, seemed like tranny was engaging then disengaging back and forth. Sometimes it runs great, than sometimes it revs up to almost 4000 rpm before it will shift. Once in a while when I step on the gas hard, it takes about two or three seconds before the tranny will engage, it used to take off right away. I do have a problem with the engine as well, maybe just o2 sensors, it dosen't idle smooth and when in gear and not moving it almost stalls but recovers. I have a noise coming from under the center console where the tranny is. It only makes the noise when I am accelerating, as soon as I let off the gas most of it goes away. Does any one have an idea what this mess could be?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the response, I have been reading quite a few people saying that the VSS causing these problems with a lot of ford trannys. I am going to take it to auto zone and have them get a code off it, and probably change the VSS with my fingers crossed. Hopefully it will be something simple, sometimes it shifts perfect. Well I will get back after I check for codes from the computer. Thanks, Jere
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jere wrote:

the VSS causing these problems with a lot of ford trannys. I am going to take it to auto zone and have them get a code off it, and probably change the VSS with my fingers crossed. Hopefully it will be something simple, sometimes it shifts perfect. Well I will get back after I check for codes from the computer.

light will not come on, but the codes will still be stored in the computer.. dont let them tell you otherwise.. if they do then they dont know what they are talking about.. just one guy at the auto zone that i go to went to the course that autozone had on using the computer..... if he is not working that day i come back when he is working....... be blunt with them and it they try to bull shoot you then ask if they went to school for using the code reader..... most have to learn by the guy who went to school and then teached them how to use it......
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
no offense ,but the check engine light indeed come on inconjuntion with the flashing OD light,then a couple of seconds later the OD light went off but the check engine light stayed on,and yes i do know what i am talking about and yes that was the problem.if you don't know all the facts or don't know what your talking about please don't confuse others that are trying to get help please

to take it to auto zone and have them get a code off it, and probably change the VSS with my fingers crossed. Hopefully it will be something simple, sometimes it shifts perfect. Well I will get back after I check for codes from the computer.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
res0ta8b wrote:

on my car, and NO the check engine light did not come on..... we probably had different problems with our vehicles, but i stand by what i said, so dont tell me what to say and i wont tell you what to say...... maybe you are confusing others with your post??? who knows..............
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
i am not the one who stated in my post like you did" don't let them tell you otherwise" about the check engine light comming on and"if they do,then they don't know what there talking about"it did on mine (sorry yours didn't)and i don't like being called a liar,if you wnt to help others ,help them don't knock others for trying to lend a possible opinion or possible solution.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
thank you all for the help so far, do any of you know where the "self test" connector is? The Haynes repair manual said it is in front of the driver's side strut tower, and autozone.com stated it is behind the passenger side strut tower, attached to the lower fender well. I have looked in both places and have come up empty handed. There is supposed to be a 6 terminal connector and a single connector. With a jumper wire and a voltage meter I should be able to check for engine codes according to Haynes repair manual, however I can't find the damb thing. And while I am at it is the VSS attached to the tranny? The car ran great tonight with no problems other than the unusual sound that comes from the tranny. And the fact that I got pulled over going 70 in a 45, whoops.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jere wrote:

connector is? The Haynes repair manual said it is in front of the driver's side strut tower, and autozone.com stated it is behind the passenger side strut tower, attached to the lower fender well. I have looked in both places and have come up empty handed. There is supposed to be a 6 terminal connector and a single connector. With a jumper wire and a voltage meter I should be able to check for engine codes according to Haynes repair manual, however I can't find the damb thing. And while I am at it is the VSS attached to the tranny? The car ran great tonight with no problems other than the unusual sound that comes from the tranny. And the fact that I got pulled over going 70 in a 45, whoops.
The '94 T-Bird has the OBD-II, not OBD. To check codes you need an OBD-II scanner. The connector is a D-shaped shell that can be found under the dash on the passenger side.
The VSS is purported to be on the left-hand rear of the tranny.
Sorry about your insurance going up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jere wrote:

the VSS causing these problems with a lot of ford trannys. I am going to take it to auto zone and have them get a code off it, and probably change the VSS with my fingers crossed. Hopefully it will be something simple, sometimes it shifts perfect. Well I will get back after I check for codes from the computer.

transmission the code came back that the VSS was bad.. but a new one did not correct the problem.. it was the wires to the VSS that were messed up.. about one month earlier i had to jack up the engine to change the motor mounts and by doing this i had stretched the wires to the VSS and the copper wires inside the plastic/rubber covering got stretched and was frayed inside the plastic/rubber coating.... so check this also... only two wires..... use a multimeter for continuity.. i took some sewing needles and worked my way back about a foot or two and pushed the needles into the plastic coating and then read continuity from the needle to the plug that goes to the VSS(on both wires) this is how i found the bad wire.. some electrical connectors from the hardware store corrected this problem..... hope this helps.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.