79 distributor

Not a Hall Effect device.

Yes, a permanent magnet generator.

The winding is about 1000 ohms, there probably wasn't enough current passed thru the windings to allow the bulb to glow.

Invalid test not supported by Ford.

Ohm meter, check for resistance between 800 and 1000 ohms, if okay, connect a voltmeter set to AC volts, crank engine, you should see at least 1 volt (one) AC.

Three wires pass into the distributor bowl, the black one is attached to a ground screw, remove the screw and clean everything nice and shiny, remove distributor from block, clean all areas where the distributor and block contact each other. This ignition system will not function if this ground path is corroded in any way.

Also, this and all other Duraspark systems shut down if voltage is below 10 volts, so hang your volt meter on the battery set to DC volts and watch the battery voltage while you crank the engine. It can NOT go below 10 volts, if so, replace the battery. Do not assume just because the engine cranks good that the voltage is above 10 volts, measure it!

Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

Carl K

Damm it.

I was using a remote starter switch, and pulled the orange (or faded red) from the solanoid to hook up the remote. turn key on, hit switch, no spark. replace orange, hit switch, spark. looking at the diagram again I see the 'start' goes to the ignition module too.

I can understand some adjustment to the timing when it is being cranked, but why the @#$@ would it _not spark_ when the ignition is on and the motor is turning over?

Carl K

Carl K wrote: (79 351w)

Trying to get it running, but no spark. Replaced coil and ignition module. I can get a spark by flashing the coil with 12V. Was using a remote starter switch, and pulled the orange wire rom the solenoid to hook up the remote. Turn key on, hit switch, no spark. Replace orange, hit switch, spark. Looking at the diagram again I see the 'start' goes to the ignition module too.

Why wouldn't it spark with the ignition on and the motor cranking? ___________________________________________________________

Because the module is not getting 12 Volts from the ignition switch in the RUN position.

You confirmed that the coil works, the module works, the starter works, and the distributor works.

Three most probable causes of the problem:

1.) Bad ignition switch. 2.) Bad 12V supply to ignition switch 3.) Bad connections from ignition switch to module. 4.) Broken ignition resistor if so equipped.

Good luck.

Rodan

Except that it is. note: > Replace orange, hit switch, spark. plus I checked with a test lamp, module is getting 12 Volts.

longer have a spark problem, just wondering why

Um, you forgot #5: Not using ignition switch to crank starter. :)

However, that does not answer my question. (keep in mind I know how to make ti spank, just wondering why it is the way it is.)

Carl K

a spark problem, just wondering why

What color are the wires coming out of the module?

Normally the white wire will be hot when cranking only, red will be hot in run only.

There's also a wire connected to the starter solenoid to bypass the ballast resistor during crank mode.

a spark problem, just wondering why

The wire you're pulling is probably the ballast resistor bypass-I don't have the wiring diagram with me to verify the color. Look at the diagram-if that wire is pulled there is no voltage to the coil during crank.

Because the module is not gett Um, you didn't answer my question. I know how to make it spank. Just wondering why it is the way it is. _____________________________________________

Um, I did answer your question, as did several other responders.

Rodan.

Then why does it run when it is in the run position?

(sorry if this is newly introduced info.)

Carl K

Would that cause a bigger spark? maybe it was sparking all along, but not bright enough for me to notice.

Carl K