Rack & Pinion Repair - 97 Aerostar

Welp, after replacing a leaking PS pump, now there is a good size leak in the rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?
Since it started leaking, I keep adding PS fluid to keep it full, but now it's leaking too much to ignore.
Also, what is everyone's experience for the cost rebuilding the R&P.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 23:51:20 -0800, "Guv Bob"
rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?

Buy a replacement and save yourself a lot of agony.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Guv Bob wrote:

rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?

Not everything that Ford makes is good. But Ford does make good products. This is why the F-150 is the number #1 truck.
Ford made a 300 straight six that was indestructible but took it out of production around 95. Replaced it with a v-6 that is nothing but junk. I own a 5.4 litre Triton. This engine is indestructible.
Your best bet would be get rid of the Aerostar, it was and still is junk...
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:01:34 -0500, "75yrs.experience"

the rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?

The aerostar was marginal in it's early years, but by the end in 1997 there was NOTHING in it's class that could touch it.
I've had 2 - EARLY ones, (1989 and 1990) that both went over 240,000km up here in the rust belt.
I'd take another one over the GM Mini-vans any day of the week - and they had their advantages over the Mopar Minivans when it came to using them as a truck.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mar 7, 8:07 pm, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Normally, the people who bash Aerostars have never owned one. I've owned four and I still have one.My previous three each went to 250K+ miles without engine or tranny teardowns. Ours have all been extended models and the space behind the rear seat is unbelievable. The A4LD tranny is probably the weakest link of an Aero, but good transmission maintenance will cure that. My current Aerostar just turned 202K on the odometer. My wife has rented various other cars when she travels and always loves to come back to the Aerostar. The worst maintenance headache would be to change spark plugs, but after doing one or two, most do-it-yourselfers would have no problem. There are better vehicles now, but the platform hasn't been manufactured since '97 and the replacement Windstar can't compare.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Changing the plugs on a 3 liter cold is a 20 minute job - hot is insanity. The 4 speed automatic in the later years stood up well if you changed the fluid regularly - and the 97 5 speed on the 4 liter was an exceptional transmission - either 2WD or AWD. All 7aerostars in our family were long bodies - I would't have anything else - and my 3 liters hauled the 17 foot Bonair through mountains etc with no problem at all - while the 3.8 GM van that replaced it couldn't tow the trailer on flat ground..I sold the trailer, and one brother sold his Bonair and his 4 liter and bought a bigger trailer and a Tundra Maxi to tow it.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 5 Mar 2011 23:51:20 -0800, "Guv Bob"
rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?

What Clare said - replacement rack. You can pretty much forget about rebuilding yours since they usually score the hell out of the cylinder bore. A well remanufactured rack will have had a steel sleeve installed in the bore which should allow it to last longer than the original. Make sure you buy the "long rack" assembly. It will include new tie rods and joints and, may be less expensive than a short rack. You will need to have the wheel alignment checked and the toe-in set. If you are handy with a good assortment of hand tools, you can do the job yourself and use a tape measure to set the toe good enough to drive it to a nearby alignment shop. Air wrenches, floor jack and other things make it easier.
Good luck, Lugnut
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Belated thanks a lot for the good advice. Any recommendations for manufacturer?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 01:32:42 -0800, "Guv Bob"

the rack and pinion assy. I'm wondering if there is a way to plug that leak myself without having the assy taken out and reuild?

I haven't replaced a rack in several years now. The TRW remans always worked well and lasted for me. I don't know if they are still in the reman R&P business. Where I live now, it seems that Cardone has taken over the market. Even though I have used some of their parts, I am not impressed with their quality. I tend to use others if available. I don't know if it really makes a difference since most remans are now imported like everything else these days. I have no idea where Ford sources their reman parts these days but, they don't appear to be particular better than the aftermarket. My last two alternators went less that 10k miles before giving up with failed bearings. I would love to be able to buy US or Canadian products.
One thing I did not mention before - do not turn the steering wheel with the rack disconnected. Have the steering centered before you disconnect the joint and leave the steering wheel there while disconnected. Make sure the replacement rack is centered before attempting to re-connect. If the steering wheel is turned too far, the clock spring may be damaged and you will end up with a dead air bag. The clock spring can be replaced,but the last one I bought was around $100 for parts IIRC. A little care can prevent that.
Lugnut
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thank you, Lugnut. I'm not set up for working under the car, so will have to fork over the extra $$ and take to a shop. Sound like it's a pretty routine job (famous last words)....
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

One caution...Either you check or have the shop check the fluid in the pump reservoir for metal filing, chips, shavings, etc. I found that if the inner tie rods had been grinding away at the rack body or vice-versa, then those filings were scattered through the system. The only solution was to flush the system and if necessary replace the pump and reservoir if required....Sometimes it wasn't other time it was....
DaveD

Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks, will do.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks, will do.
Do you know if there is an exploded view of this particular R&P online?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Latest chapter....
Replaced PS pump, R&P and related hoses, etc., a few weeks ago. Was nice and quiet for awhile but now the good old PS whine is back just as loud as ever. Fluid is holding at proper level and all else is fine.
I guess I'll just have to live with the fact that all the neighbors will hear when I come home. But I'm wondering now -- do the new Ford's still come off the line with this quality control problems like this?

Thanks, will do.
Do you know if there is an exploded view of this particular R&P online?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.