taurus rotors

I have a 95 taurus that has a slight wobble when applying the front brakes. I'm trying to replace the front rotors, but I've tried everything to get
them off to no avail. Torch, wheel puller, PB blaster, bfh (big f#$%ing hammer), no luck. Any ideas.
thanks
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my 99 windstar has a little torx head screw that if you wherent looking for you wouldnt know it was there and you'd pound on the rotors all day, maybe your taurus does?

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petebert wrote:

From the 2000 Taurus manual:
1. Remove the brake caliper anchor plate. For additional information, refer to Brake Caliper Anchor Plate in this section.
2. Remove and discard the brake disc retainers.
3. Note: If the brake disc (1125) will not come off, lubricate the brake disc where it contacts the hub assembly using Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor F2AZ-19A501A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56A. Strike the disc between the wheel bolts with a plastic hammer. If this does not work, attach 23 jaw puller 205D027 (D80L-1013A) or equivalent and remove the brake disc.
Note: If excessive force must be used during disc removal, the disc must be checked for runout. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00.
Remove the brake disc.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

snipped-for-privacy@carolina.rr.com.REMOVE
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Protect the threads, of course... and use regular hammer.. strike does not mean 'pound' or 'beat'.
I knew there was something I did... and that was it. Amazing I thought of it without referencing the manual
Penetrant at hub/rotor lip will help, as noted. Penetrant at flange face (behind rotor) wont.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
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wrote:

yep, probably NA here, but when I changed rotors on my wifes toy pickup, we spent a good chunk of the afternoon with the rotor/hub assembly on 4x4s eating the piss out of it with a 20lb sledge, with no luck whatsoever.. sent her after a manual that stated "remove hub from rotor".. lots of help there.... then I sat it in my lap, started circling the studs with a tck hammer and they were both done in under 10mins... classic case of "less is more"..
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With the wheel puller in place and some hammering on the end of a steel rod about 1/2 inch in diameter and a foot long , between the lug bolts did the trick. Only I did have to hit the end of the rod pretty hard. Worked though.
thanks
wrote:

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When you do get it off, make sure to put antiseize on it, the nice copper colored stuff. I'm not sure if this will work, but I was working on a BMW whose wheel wouldn't come off after we removed the lug bolts. You didn't mention removing the retaining screw and caliper. If you didnt remove the retaining screw check to see if there is one, if neccessary you may have to drill it out.
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Hit the outside diameter with a hammer. That is, hit the edge with hammer blows towards the center of the axle. Turn the rotor 90 degrees and hit it again. Keep doing this. It will come off.
stonecreek wrote:

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I read here once (and tried it once) to slightly loosen the lug nuts and move the car a very short distance with a turn to knock it loose. It worked the one time i tried it.
Bob
dmtaurus wrote:

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