Used to see a lot of people doing this. You basically pop off panels and
wash out the crud, then spray motor oil or trans fluid into the body
cavities like you were doing undercoating but it doesn't dry out. Then
you wait till it finishes dripping out and spray under the body as well
and inside the frame rails. Done every 6 months to a year it will really
keep the rust away. I also know at least one person who also wipes down
the entire body with oil but I think that is a bit too far.
"DJ Hatt" < snipped-for-privacy@lycosSPAM.com> wrote in message
The technology has moved on from the days of using motor oil or tranny
fluid. In canada we have two franchises, crown and rust check that that use
specially formulated oils designed specifically for rust proofing. Along
with them there many independent shops using various concotions. The system
I use is from a body shop I know. The use a thicker gel type oil spray on
the undercarriage and thin oil in the panels. The oils are special mixtures
used on ships and rigs in marine enviroments where special oils sprays for
corrosion control (as you can imaging, salt water is a tough enviroment) are
very common. Very powerful stuff. The best out there. I do it before every
The other dimension to body preservation is external paint care. This
envolves checking for paint chips and sealing them (clear nail polish for
small one is great, body shop for major ones), and waxing with high quality
wax twice a year, once before the summer and once before the winter.
My brother is into the same maintence (also very frequent oil, tranny,
power, diff etc fluid changes ) as me and he has an 87 astro with 750,000 km
with only a tranny rebuild at 500,000 along with some front end renewal, the
roads are hell around here) and the van looks like new and the motor is
still in decent shape. Not bad for a vechicle driven year round in winter
climes with lots of salt.
We both drive astros, with corvettes (2003 convertibles) for second cars. It
is amazing the money you save when you drive an easy and cheap to maintain
vechicle for decades.
Tires and speedometer problems both came with the vehicle. The
speedometer is off by about 20%, and I think the tires are larger
than the standard. So they're wrong in a consistent manner (a
larger tire would travel farther with each revolution than the
speedometer is set to record per revolution), but the tires are
not that big. Circumference = 2*pi*radius = pi*diameter, so if
circumference were 20% larger, the radius and diameter would be
too. 20% is 1/5 larger; that would be a huge tire.
Black = unburned fuel, blue = burned oil?
Not yet. Newsgroup archives tell me that's probably something
we should do at this point. Would the catalytic converter be
fried once, dead permanently; or intermittent? Is it above or
below the O2 sensor, in the exhaust stream?
email@example.com (Una) wrote in wrote:
[drivel claiming she's a mechanic, but not gonna help...]
Hey, see GMdud's remarks: proof positive that they are all
blooming idiots - or else they'd be brain sturgeons.
Plus, all GM mechanics take it up the butt freely, "Mr.
Goodenwinch" hmmmm, even sounds really gay!
As a matter of policy I don't complain about things people
don't understand and/or cannot fix. And I think both shops
are reasonably straight. I got recommendations for both
from people who are picky customers. But clearly neither
mechanic understands diagnosis on an abstract level, nor has
learned engine diagnosis per se on a practical level. Also
FWIW, we have had both shops do other work, so far mostly
okay (Shop #1 put the wrong type of struts on my commuting
car; DH re-did the job himself).
Maybe, maybe not, but I know they have learned to take an abstract
level, stroke it, milk it, and bilk it while they wing it, mostly
because our ego won't let, or can't let, or don't and won't admit its
just junk and we can't accept that. Thereby giving us a new
The only practical level is to start at the center and work your
way out. Not around the outside going in. That would be like
a bicycle tire, torquing the spokes painstakingly one by one, and
expecting all that to fix the
burnt out bearing at the center.
Well, you wouldn't have been to two shops if there wasn't a limited
knowlegde about what to do at one of them at least would you? I don't
whether you read my other posts or not, but as I said, I spent
around the outside of my motor, and listening to every other mechanic
next a liar. Some one told me they are the least trusted, most
complained about profession
there is. I always thought that was lawyers, but I could always be
Got something to hide?
The OP didn't say "idiot = mechanic", as she has already mentioned to you!
Quite honestly, there are people in this world who proclaim to be mechanics
that I would not want within 10 miles of my vehicle. I am no expert, but I
can tell when people don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
Conversely, there are many very good automotive mechanics in this
world...and you may well be one of them...or you may not. I'm not a really
good mechanic, but with my own vehicles I will sit down and learn about it
or turn things over to someone more qualified before I really mess it up.
You have been insulted, huh? Why, if you're not an idiot mechanic is that
It's Usenet, you'll learn fast how unwise that truly is.
The OP didn't say or mean that YOU specifically are an idiot, unless you
happen to be one of her mechanics of choice.
Pay the bill first and do be polite, but do tell them what you think of
their service. It is the only way you could reasonably expect an improvement
in service if you come back.
I would check the fuel pressure for the CEL problem. Might even throw a MAP
sensor on it or at least check its vacuum supply carefully. If it has a
speedo cable you can put a gear on it to adjust the readout. Does the speedo
jump or anything wierd like that? Does it have a cable?Sorry for the
top-post but I cant bring my tired finger to scroll anymore :)
Will do that. If DH has already done that, we'll do it again.
But...what would you expect to find, if fuel pressure is the
problem? Low pressure, high pressure, erratic pressure, what?
The speedometer unit connects to a cable, which drives the gears
which ratchet the digits on the odometer. Is that the cable you
mean? The speedometer does not do anything strange, apart from
understating the actual speed and distance traveled.
Scroll! How tedious. You might try a newsreader that has a
smarter viewer, so you don't have to scroll.
valve....read it carefully. That problem will make it run rich and it thinks
its lean.(Not all emission configs are capable of this problem, only if it
has the air injection on the same side as the O2. A bad O2 will cause the
CEL to come on, following your simptoms closely.Being that you replaced it
twice already, maybe there is something else wrong......Burning enough oil
to kill the O2 in a short time maybe? Is the smoke gray? gray=oil
black=gas. Dont forget the MAP. check its vacuum source carefully... GL
P.S. you really need a good tech to look at it in my opinion..... Ask
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