94 Buick Park Ave 3.8 Crankshaft Harmonic Balancer Removal

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to ease the removal of the balancer bolt from the crankshaft ? Thanks,Dom

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Dom Plati wrote:

Good quality air impact running at least 100 psi.
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Tried that this morning on my '93 Bonneville and it did not work? The torque for that bolt is 111 ft lbs + 76 degrees.
I'm going to look for a heavy duty impact gun this week.
Any other ideas beside an impact gun.
As for the Bonny's problem, it would crank but would not run.
Thanks
Jim
Paul wrote:

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Might not be your impact gun, possibly you don't have enough air pressure or CFM from your compressor. I would try to borrow a heavier duty gun before buying one.
Brian

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120 psi coming out of the compressor.
Jimmy
NoSpam wrote:

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Whats your Impact rated for? Mine does a peak of 550 FT/LBS of torque in reverse. Rated for that at 90 PSI. Since my compressior is turning out 200 PSI, I use a regulator. A few times I have upped the anty to 120 PSI, but that is not good for tools. Charles Blue Point AT355/555
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You probably have a 3/4" drive impact wrench. I only have a 1/2" drive so it probably peaked at 250 ft/lbs.
I'll pobably look for a place where I can rent them.
Did your impact wrench worked on the bolt holding the balancer?
Jimmy
Charles Bendig wrote:

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My Impact is 1/2 Drive. Im still looking for a good used 3/8's drive for light duty. I bought mine from a pawn shop for $60, then had my snap on man run the numbers and get me the specs. It's an older one that is still made under a new part number. Same specs. Would cost over $300 new.
The only bolts it hasn't been able to handle, were under such load that when cut with a torch, actually popped out of place. Charles
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jim wrote:

There is another way but I have always been reluctant to try it: Breaker bar on the bolt and up against the concrete or frame, ignition wires off, key the starter BRIEFLY. I've always been too worried about flying parts to try that.
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jim wrote:

There is another way but I have always been reluctant to try it: Breaker bar on the bolt and up against the concrete or frame, ignition wires off, key the starter BRIEFLY. I've always been too worried about flying parts to try that.
I didn't want to mention that, but I did do this on a 1968 GTO I had when I was about 18 years old. I was changing the timing chain and gears in my Dad's driveway and didn't have any air tools. So I put the breaker bar on the frame, pulled the coil wire and clicked the starter. It did work, I just didn't want to admit to doing this as everyone on here is going to call me Elliot now ;-)
Brian
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I
just
I did it my self back before I had air tools to use. first time was on a 79 Mustang 2.3. Had the metal timing cover, had to remove crank pully to remove the timing belt cover.
Doing this with cheep tools will cause flying debris. Never do this with anyone standing in an area where they could get hurt. If something jams up disconnect the barrety before attempting to free the bar. Charles
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I have read this process while surfing last night and this is placed at the bottom of the the list.
More chance of breaking other things before getting the main problem fixed.
Thanks anyways.
Jimmy
Charles Bendig wrote:

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