How much to replace 2001 Honda CR/V Catalytic Converter

Two separate Honda dealers have diagnosed a failed catalytic converter on my daughter's 2001 Honda CR/V. One wants $1,100 to fix it. The other simply says, "Thousands." The catalytic converter needs to be
replaced. The car has 105,000 miles on it.
Can anyone give me an authorative real world estimate of what this repair should cost, including if done by someone other than a dealer?
Thanks
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Dejola wrote:

Hi, Tried wrecking yard for a good used one? Wonder what caused it? There must have been warning symptoms B4 it failed.
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Thanks for the prompt response. The Check Engine light had come on. She brought it into the Honda dealer where she bought it to have it checked out. They said they checked it out but made no mention of a catalytic converter problem and also suggested she have he 100,000 mile servicing done. She did have it done at a cost of $400 and went on her merry way. Two days later the Check Engine light came on again. It was a few weeks before she could get back to the distant dealer. When she bought the car used she got a 100,000 mile warranty, which is moot because this failure occurred after 80,000 miles, the point at which even under the 100,000 warranty the CC is no longer covered.
I somehow doubt it would be wise to buy a used CC at a junk yard not knowing whether it is any good. For many parts that is a prudent option. But not, I think, for a CC.
Thanks for your help, though
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There are aftermarket cats that I assume would be less than an OEM one. Did the deal give you a parts and labor breakdown? I would go to an exhaust shop (Mida, Meineke, etc) and get an estimate. If would have to be less than the dealer, I would think.
Dan D '07 Ody EX Central NJ USA
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It is illegal in the United States to install used cats that have not been certified and labeled with a special EPA sticker.
If the cat has the EPA sticker, it's OK.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Dejola wrote:

Hi, My concern is finding the cause of failure B4 replacing it. Otherwise new cat may go bad soon too.
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The dealer will replace the cat with a new OEM one, which is why you're quoted that figure. Aftermarket cats will be a third that.
Before you actually get it replaced though, read this, from Honda ServiceNews from Oct '98:
Before you troubleshoot an OBD II vehicle that stores DTC P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold), run these quick checks: 1. Check for a leak in the exhaust system. If you find one, repair it, clear the DTC, and test-drive the vehicle. If the DTC doesnt come back, return the vehicle to the customer. If the DTC returns, go to step 2. 2. Connect the PGM Tester, and test-drive the vehicle while an assistant monitors the voltage signal from the secondary oxygen sensor (HO2S S2). After the catalyst reaches operating temperature, the HO2S S2 voltage should stay between 0.5 and 0.8 V at steady cruising speed. During deceleration, the voltage should be steady at 0.1 V or less. If the voltage readings are OK, clear the DTC, and return the vehicle to the customer. At cruising speed, if the voltage fluctuates or stays below 5 V, go to step 3. 3. Measure the inlet and outlet external temperatures of the catalytic converter with a thermometer capable of reading up to 500F. If the outlet temperature is more than 100F hotter than the inlet temperature, the converter is OK; clear the DTC, and return the vehicle to the customer. If the outlet temperature is less than 100F hotter than the inlet temperature, replace the converter.
--
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Dejola wrote:

-----------------------------------
The dealer probably didn't even ask whether she's ever had her valves adjusted. On the first generation CR-V they need to be adjusted to the loose side of the specs every 30,000 Miles (50,000 Km). There's a big fat lie in the (North American versions of the) Owner's Manual.
An aftermarket cat will be OK, but don't bother replacing the cat if you haven't isolated what caused it to fail. Has her car ever stalled within the first five minutes of start-up? That's the other most important symptom of tight valves.
Here's an older thread you could start with: http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t 84&highlight=burnt
When you quote ENGINE TROUBLE CODES, it's very helpful to give the actual numeric code. The 'interpretation' is often found to be meaningless.
'Curly'
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