i have two:
1, you got hosed on the rack. 141k for a honda rack is ridiculously
low. usually they're up there well into the mid hundreds before there
are any wear issues - assuming you've not broken any boots.
2. take it to somewhere that knows what they're doing. "loose" steering
can be many things, including bad tires, worn shocks, worn suspension
rubbers, worn top wishbone balljoints, and in your case, a genuinely
loose rack because the guys that fitted the new one didn't do it right.
you should also have a look at the alignment printout you received when
you had that done. check to see whether the caster is still in spec -
too little caster [from accident damage] also has symptoms like you
bottom line, this should have been fixed already. if not, then they
don't know what they're doing and you need to find someone competent -
this is a life safety issue.
It's odd that the old rack would be replaced because of worn joints. All
the ball joints are replaceable separately from the rack itself.
Aftermarket wheels tend to be hard on steering joints, since their offsets
are usually different from factory, and place extra load on the joints that
the OE wheels didn't.
Generally, the only reason you'd ever replace a rack is for fluid leakage,
which itself is a function of split boots, or of the use of incorrect
Your losse/wobbly problem is almost certainly the alignment (toe is off).
Bring it back and have them do it again.
???????? if the offset on on side is changed and the other stays the
same, this might be true. but if the offsets on both sides are the same,
regardless of whether they're changed, any differential is self-canceling.
easily one of the most bizarre statements to appear on this group in a
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