Electrical question for hyundaitech

hyundaitech,
I don't know if you can help me with this question but here goes. I've got a 2003 GLS with sunroof. Unfortunately, the map light switches
aren't illuminated and I'm tired of driving at night and fumbling around trying to find the map light switches, only to hit one of the the roof switches by accident and have the roof retract on me. Having that happen is especially frustrating when it's raining out. To solve that problem I want to install two very small 12 volt LED's into the sunroof control panel to mark the position of each of the map light switches. Physically installing them into the panel won't be a problem. My problem is trying to figure out where I can tap into the control panel itself to get a switched 12 volt positive feed for the LED's. I bought a spare sunroof control panel to play around with and I've fed 12 volts into it and I've noted what each of the connections are for. For obvious reasons, I'd like to try and tap into the power connections in the sunroof control panel or headliner and avoid running power leads to junctions elsewhere in the car. I've got the Elantra electrical manual, but after looking at that for a while everything starts getting blurry. I'd love to be able to power the LED's on when I turn on the parking lights or headlights but I guess I'd be happy if I can get power to the LED's when I turn the ignition switch on. I really don't want to have the power feed be hot all the time for obvious reasons. One thing that I may be able to tap into is the spare roof lamp harness that's up in the headliner. I saw that unused harness when I was installing the one-touch sunroof control relay some time ago but I know that room lamp is controlled by the ETACM. Any suggestions that you can pass along will be greatly appreciated. I don't suppose Hyundai redesigned that panel to incorporate lighting for the map light switches? Thanks for your time.
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MidnightGray
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Probably the easiest/nearest place to tap in would be the brown/black wire going to the sunroof relay. This wire has switched power. According to the schematics, the only wires power wires going to the lamp/sunroof control assembly either have constant power. The brown/black wire goes through the relay coil side before getting to the lamp/sunroof control panel.
If you want to use the tail lamp circuit, the rheostat (dimmer switch) is a good place to tap in. Wire the positive LED lead to the black wire at the rheostat. Then wire the negative to the green wire if you'd like the LED to dim with the rheostat, or simply attach to ground if you want full LED illumination anytime the tail lamps are on.
The wiring to the roof panel runs up the left front pillar. The trim should simply snap off. It's probably not a terribly involved project if you wanted to actually tap into the dimmer.
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hyundaitech;198888 Wrote: > Probably the easiest/nearest place to tap in would be the brown/black > wire

I checked the schematic and you're absolutely correct. I think that's the (very simple) answer that I've been looking for. Thank you for pointing that out. I was so focused on taping into the control panel lighting circuitry that I forgot all about the relay circuitry. It looks like pin 2 on connector M96 will do it. No doubt that would work with the stock relay, but I'll have to see if that will also work with the one-touch relay that I installed. I also appreciate the other suggestion about tapping into the rheostat. It sounds easy enough even with having to remove the trim panel. Having the LED's tied into illumination control would be even sweeter and I may end up going that route eventually. For now, just getting illuminated indicators overhead would be a tremendous improvement over total darkness. Thank you!
You did such a great job with that question, I'm wondering if I can bother you with one more electrical question about the Elantra. I need to install a dash switch to control my GLS fog lights so I can turn them on and off as needed. The power and ground connections for the switch in the cabin will be pretty straightforward, but somehow I need to get a powered lead (connected to the new switch) from the cabin, through the firewall, and then into the engine compartment. Just one wire would do it for me. I've looked just about everywhere for a simple, easy access point or plug, but short of drilling a hole through the firewall I can't see a very direct route, although I may have overlooked an access point somewhere. I was hoping that one of the harnesses going through the firewall would have an unused lead and I just could hitch a free ride on that. But from what I can see, it doesn't look like Hyundai has any unused leads in the harnesses. In your vast experience, do you know of or have a fairly simple suggestion for getting a single wire connection from the cabin and into the engine compartment by going through the firewall or otherwise on an '03 GLS? I don't mind doing a little work to make it happen as long as it doesn't involve tearing the entire dash out or pulling a fender off the car. I asked my dealer how I could do it, and I was even williing to pay them to do it, but they didn't even want to talk about that kind of "voodoo magic". I'm open to suggestions. Thanks again for the help.
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MidnightGray
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I'll need to look into this tomorrow. I'm not at work and am on Mac, so I can't view the website.
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You use a Mac? Man, you really are a liberal!!! :-P
Eric
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Eric G. wrote:

No, Mac users are Independents. Liberals still use terminals off or an IBM mainframe so they can control what the users do! :-)
Matt
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Start by checking to see whether you already have fog lamp wiring in your car. Are the connectors for the fog lamps themselves present? Do you have a fog lamp relay in the underhood fuse box? Is there a 15A fog lamp fuse in the underhood fuse box? Is the green/orange wire for the fog lamp switch present at pin 12 of the multifunction switch connector?
If all these things are present, all you really need to do is tap into the wire at the multifunction switch connector for your own switch (or even replace the multifunction switch with one for fog lamps), find a ground for the switch, and mount the lamps and connect to the connetors/wires already in place. Even if the wire at the multifunction switch is the only thing present, that's your path from inside the vehicle to outside.
I know it'll make you dizzy, but comparing the schematic to what's present on your car is an excellent place to start. Then it's a matter of engineering something simple to work with what's already there.
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hyundaitech;202735 Wrote: > Start by checking to see whether you already have fog lamp wiring in > your

Unfortunately, there's no fog light relay or relay socket in the underhood fuse box and consequently no harness wiring that I can see. Nada. No fog light connectors either. Yeah, I know, that would have been too easy. I've already checked for that. I'll have to check and see if there's anything at all at the multifunction switch because you're right, that would provide access through the firewall. There's no relay socket connections in the underhood fuse box so I kind of doubt there's any existing harness wiring anywhere. I was just wondering if in your experience you knew of an easy way to do that or knew of an available access point through the firewall. Thanks again for your help.
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There's a simpler solution; install a tactile indicator of some sort on each button. It can be something as simple an unobtrusive as one of the small rubber buttons used on computers, furniture and the like. You can get them at any hardware store or home center in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.
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But in the dark you still have to reach and feel around for the tactile button. With an LED, you go right to it. I too, often fumble for the switches.
A simple feature I miss is having the dome light come on when I turn the key off. When I pull into my driveway at night, I turn the car of and I'm sitting in the dark looking for the papers on the seat, of my hat, etc. In my Buick, the light comes on as soon as I remove the key and stays on for some time after I exit. The Buick also cost thousands more and yes, you do have to drop some little features to keep the cost in line.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

I guess, but it seems to me to be easier to just learn where the switches are.
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