Now that it has gotten cooler, it seems that the seatbelt warning buzzer in my 93 GC is staying on after starting the vehicle. It seems to be temperature sensitive with the buzzer only staying on when the temp
Follow the seat belt harness down to the carpet and find the wire. Light Green with a Red stripe. Ground the wire to the chassis and that will bypass the switch that has started to fail. Or clean the seatbelt switch. (a real pain in the butt)
You can't directly pull the module, it's tied into other things.
Well unfortunately grounding and/or shorting the wires going to and from the buckle did not help the situation. I pulled the pink colored module located under the dash to quiet the infernal buzzer. Does anyone know if these modules typically go bad or could I go junk yarding and pick up another one.
Cavity C4 in the socket where the chime plugs is the line to the seatbelt if you have a multimeter you could check the switch.
With the chime module out you won't get "lamps on", "turnsignal left running", or "key in the ignition" beeps. And you will be able to lock the drivers door using the powerlocks if the key is in the ignition.
Never heard of a module going bad. The pinout is like this. (looking into the socket where the chime module plugs)
[ ] C1 C2 C3 C4 C8 C7 C6 C5
C1 - Fused Ignition (12V) Running C2 - Seat belt lamp (bulb on the dash) C3 - Ground C4 - Seat Belt Switch C5 - Power Door Lock Inhibit C6 - Fused Battery (12V) Constant C7 - Headlamp Switch C8 - Tone Line (chime from the VIC)
The underseat sensor harness under my TJ seat got caught in a seat cover fastener, dragged onto the seat track, and crushed when I pushed the seat back. Now that stupid buzzer NEVER rings-when starting or otherwise! I say rip it out, if it's the same as mine.
Well unfortunately I found out that the power locks will not lock without the module in place. That little module does a bunch of things. It was warmer today and the buzzer worked fine. So it looks like some further debugging of the wiring is in order:(
You can bypass the door interlock. Just put a jumper between pin C5 and ground (C3). The wire is a 20 Gauge Yellow with Black stripe.
Double check the pins with a volt meter. The schematic in my service book has errors. To test I'd put an ammeter between those pins to protect against any errors before using a solid wire.
Door unlock and lock relays are located in the glove box under that little panel.
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