Oil Burning SIII

My series III Gets through oil like diesel at the moment. Its not leaking too horrendously from anywhere and doesn't leave a puddle on the drive. It does generate clouds of grey smoke when under load however (normally when pulling off, climbing a hill or going flat out on a motor-way). I seem to be forever putting oil into her.. since July - probably about 11litres.

Took it into a garage to have the head gasket done (As it was weeping slightly) and at the time got the bores, piston rings etc etc checked. All was fine, compression good etc.

So.. whats next to check? Any thoughts?

Many thanks,

Mark

Reply to
Mark Gowans
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Injectors and fuel injection pump. Doing these on mine got rid of the smokescreen i was laying down behind me.. :)

The injectors are fairly cheap. I think mine were 30-40 quid for an exchange recon set. The injection pump is a bit more costly. You want to get yours reconditioned and set up properly. I paid about £80 i think, but you might get it cheaper. Try your local diesel specialist (maybe look at yell.co.uk to find one?). The pump made more difference than the injectors on mine, but you might aswell do both while youre at it...

Also, I presume that the head is good?. Was it all checked when your head gasket was done?

I've done my engine in the opposite order to you. I did all the anciliaries first, and then did the rebuild. Doesnt smoke atall now :)

Reply to
Tom Woods

Did you get the valve guide seals changed while the head was off. 2¼'s can shift a fair amount of oil through them if they had had their day.

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

the injector and pump may help stop the smokescreen, but won't do anything to the oil consumption will it??

sam.

Reply to
samuel mcgregor

Good point. Yeah the fuel system shouldnt affect the oil usage (shouldnt do anyway should it?). I was too tired last night to notice that :). It does cause lots of grey smoke like he says though.

Reply to
Tom Woods

The head and injectors are a relatively easy job. The pipework to the injectors needs a little care -- it is a good idea to replace the little copper washers on the return pipes (links the injectors). Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts on the high-pressure pipes from injector pump to injectors.

As for the head itself, it is definitely worth checking the valves while it's off. Re-grind and, as suggested, replace the valve-stem seals.

Have a look at the bores while you can. The gasket set isn't expensive, so you don't _have_ to do anything straight away.

The cylinder head is awkwardly heavy. You need a solid workbench, and I do not recommend that you lift it without help.

Reply to
David G. Bell

you reckon you need more than one person to lift just the head?? i have never done it myself, but am just interested. how heavy is the head. i didn't think it could be anymore than about 20kgs.

cheers.

sam.

Reply to
samuel mcgregor

On or around Fri, 28 Nov 2003 16:07:07 +1100, "samuel mcgregor" enlightened us thusly:

2.5 one I took of was inconveniently heavy, bearing in mind you have to lean over the engine bay to get at it. I'd say it's at least 20Kg, might be as much as 30, though I didn't weigh it, just complained about how heavy it was.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

It's in the middle of a Land Rover engine bay, so think about how far you have to _reach_. It is fairly heavy, but it's also awkward, and that's a combination to be wary of. Anyone not used to lifting could really hurt their back.

Reply to
David G. Bell

A bare 2.5 head weighs 33.5 kg - under H&R regs you should be using a crane to lift it!!

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

On or around Fri, 28 Nov 2003 09:09:23 +0000, richard.watson enlightened us thusly:

thought the sod was heavy.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Well this morning the little green light came on and stayed on for longer than usual, had me driving back home to get the oil which I ought to have left in the back. Sure enough the dipstick showed there was even less than usual in there.

Where does it all go ???

Reply to
Larry

Theres another job I shan't be doing myself by the roadside then.

Reply to
Larry

Its not impossible. I've taken mine off on my own (and put it back on) without too much hassle. Ive found that if you stand on the wing(s) and lift it across onto the top of the wing (and leave it there till you get down) its the easist way. Also putting a loop of pipe across the heater in/out at the front of the head makes for a good handle, and makes it a lot easier. Its also really easy if you do it with the wings off.

Reply to
Tom Woods

that heavy???? well, i'm sorry i questioned anyone. that is a fair lift, especially as stated, you must lean out into the engine bay.

cheers.

Reply to
samuel mcgregor

On or around Sun, 30 Nov 2003 09:56:50 +1100, "samuel mcgregor" enlightened us thusly:

done one singlehanded, but it wasn't easy. I have however changed the head gasket on a vauxhall viva engine in a layby. was most miffed that no-one came along and said "problems, mate?", so I was unable to use my carefully prepared throw-away line "nah, just changing the head gasket".

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Fri, 28 Nov 2003 20:19:30 -0000, "Larry" enlightened us thusly:

in my case, down the road.

something around V6½ at present; the failed pot is blowing into the crankcase and cause egress of oil in unacceptable quantities. Mind, it still actually runs fairly well - a bit down on power and it's lost about

10% economy.
Reply to
Austin Shackles

I would say it is possible. I actually did it alone in the street. The idea was to step down into the engine compartment and stand on the axel. Like that there is no heavy lifting while bending or turning too much. From there I would lift it onto the wing, get out and take it down from there. Reverse approach when refitting it.

Reply to
Knulp Rittmeyer

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