First of all, the procedure in the cited url omits something that you should know. He omits a important fact - a car's front track and rear track are rarely the same, M-Bs usually have a wider front track than rear track so setting a string parallel to the car's body is crude at best - but better than nothing.
I check and adjust my cars' toe-in a crude but quite effective way. I drive it into the garage with the steering wheel at dead center and stop the car with the parking brake, not the regular brake. Then I set a vertical stake about 3" from the center of each rear wheel and then hold a 2" wide 12" long level horizontally against each front alloy wheel, I sight down the outer edge of the level to the inner edge of the stake 3" from the rear wheel. This checks each front wheel's toe-in vs. its rear wheel AND against the steering wheel's dead center position. Thereby I treat each front wheel's toe-in individually. The front wheels' caster and camber are adjustable on the older models via eccentric bolts on the lower control arms and struts. I've adjusted these on other cars but find it too hard (for me) to undertake on my M-Bs. I've found my E320's steering is quite sensitive to toe-in, its caster and camber angles are reset (if necessary) with a dealer supplied kit.
On to your car. IMHO if the LR toe-in is really 3x that of the RR it seems to me that the LR tire would have the inside tire wear and that the car would self steer to the left - because the LR tire is steering the rear of the car to the right which causes you to steer (the front) to the right to correct the front's bias of having been aimed to the left by the back wheels.
I suggest you measure your car's height at various places in the rear because the height determines the toe-in. Height to the lowest part of the sub frame and height to the forward pivot point or sub frame bushing. If the side to side difference is more than 1 inch the toe-in may be explained and the heights should be corrected.
Otherwise, worn out bushings in the rear suspension will allow the wheels to drift from specifications. I'd check if a rear wheel shifts its position as the transmission is shifted (at idle) between D and R with the brakes off and the front wheels blocked (don't try this inside the garage!)
I hope this helps you. Tom