New 1984 300SD

The timing chain can be checked for wear at the next valve adjustment. The engine is turned by hand until a mark on the cam aligns with a fixed reference mark - that sets the cam to 00 degrees. Then the crankshaft's angle (scale on the balancer down at the pulleys) is read. The chain is worn and ought to be replaced if the crankshaft angle exceeds 5 degrees. Have it checked so you'll know it OK, or not.

Insurance is intended to repair or replace. Most old cars are pretty run out and not worth much so fixing them is more costly than replacing them. So if you invest a lot of $$ in this 21 year old car it will be up to you to prove its superior condition (and correspondingly higher than average value) in the event of a claim. I went through this a few years ago - and won, on physical condition, complete maintenance history and the insurance company knowing that the car could not be replaced within

90 days. So they paid $5,800 to fix it.

you would be suprised that some polishing compound will do to bring out the real color

as for every thing else just do what the guys are telling you.

my tranny has been slipping on shifts now for 3 years . changed filters fluids they have tried every thing.

still driving it shifting it my self

its an 82SD with 270,000 when it goes it turns into a parts car

the case, minus a few cans!

I checked out Zymol Carnauba site. They've got about a million different kinds of waxes. I guess I'll need to read up more on what kind would fir my car ...

Thanks for all your input.

I bet this place has 'em

Zymol, IMO and many others, is a big waste of money unless you want to show your car and wax it the same day you show it. If it stays inside go with P21S if it stays outside go with One Grand Blitz Wax.

Amen - when I got my 81, it was a flat dust brown from years of neglect. I HATE polishing compound - it's basically liquid sandpaper, but after waxing and waxing and waxing the dead finish with less than wonderful results, I finally gave up and used the polishing compound. Now it's the deep rich brown color you wish your cup of hot chocolate was. She's all purty and shiny now. Just be careful not to do this trick routinely, and be careful not to confuse rubbing compound with polishing compound - it's even more abrasive.

Damn - I've got to wait another 230,000 miles before I can scavenge parts off your car?

Conrad

Conrad,

Can you give me a play-by-play on what you did with your car - you mentioned polishing compound. My car is dull brown - judging by absence of rust it's been washed, but done so in commercial washes. What did you do and what should I?

Thanks,

Mia

sorrry Conrad yer just going to have to wait. hope the tranny waits also

the case, minus a few cans!

Keep as long as possible, and if eventually need to, spend plenty of time finding the right foreign/classic car painter.

Why do it?

Get the expensive Carnauba that is intended to be hand applied. Clean with Zymol cleaner first. Then get the wax started before taking the car out again. You'll waqnt to put on numerous coats, but each one takes a long time.

Why do euro lights? Well some like the look better. Why do E-code lights (euro or drop in cibie's sold by danielsternlighting.com)? Because they put out much more light and at the same time have less of a blinding affect on oncoming traffic.

Here's a play by play of what I did.

1) first, as I mentioned above I tried waxing - multiple times. It was an improvement, but left much to be desired. 2) I washed the car carefully - it's amazing how much dirt can stick to your car - and all of that dirt is a great source of scratches when you start rubbing the car. 3) Repeat step 2. Really 4) I bought some polishing compound (not rubbing compound) at the local car parts place. I also got some paint cloths, which are supposed to be clean and free of any potentially abrasive things. 5) I found a place I wouldn't have to look at (in my case, the center of the roof) just in case I did something bad to my paint. 6) I moistened one of the paint cloths, dabbed it into the polishing compound, and started rubbing. When I saw how nice and shiny the paint was, I promptly wore my arm out doing the rest of the roof. 7) I awoke the next day unable to move my arms. 8) Back to the parts store to buy a buffing machine. Don't get the simple circular kind. Get the random orbit type. 9) apply the buffer to all the flat surfaces of the car. Be VERY careful on sharp curves and corners - I still did all of these by hand. It's possible to do them with a buffer but you've got to have a light touch, or you can burn right through the paint with a power buffer. 10) wash the car again. 11) wax 12) enjoy

Conrad

I forgot the last step - watch in amazement as every bird within three counties uses your new finish for target practice.

Conrad

Very informative, thanks. Bonus: bird joke is funny :)

I'd like to wash, dry, and wax in the same spot. But I can't wash around my apartment building, and the nearest carwash is across the dirt road. So I can't wash, then drive home, let it dry, then wax. I can't sit at the wash and let it dry, either. Do I hand-dry it?

:)

I would find someone with a hose, because car washes are no good, and those wash your own car things always use high pressure hoses.

No, 50 maybe, but not more. It would be worth paying that much for the actual books though...

Marty

ALWAYS try to keep original paint.