Puzzling brake problem

Hey, I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4, and the local dealer can't seem to figure out what's wrong with my brakes. The symptoms are long pedal travel and weak brakes, mostly the rear. I pulled the ABS fuse, and if I stand on the brakes on hard packed snow or ice, the front tires skid, but the rears keep on rolling. On a dry surface, it's almost impossible to lock the front tires - the calipers just don't seem to be getting enough hydraulic pressure, and it feels like the brake pedal bottoms out on something after too much travel. After braking down a hill, if I get out of the truck and touch the calipers, they're hot, but the rear drums are cold. Pads and shoes are new, rotors and drums are in excellent shape, both rear wheel cylinders are free, and the shoes are assembled and adjusted properly. My truck has been at the dealer four times now for this problem. They replaced the master cylinder and part of the ABS system - I think they called it a modulating valve or something like that. Personally, I think it feels like there is air trapped in the system somewhere, but I bled it before I brought it in, and they bled it after replacing parts. Is there a secret to bleeding this thing? Thanks for any ideas. Henry

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Reply to
Henry Hansteen
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Sounds like you're talking about the Proportional valve and it's not working for you as it should. There is a trick to bleeding with one, there's a part that you push/pull at appropriate times while bleeding the front and rear. This device controls the difference in line pressure which is necessary because the front brakes are designed to do more of the braking than the rear brakes. This is more prevalent when the front brakes are disc and the rear are drums. You should get a manual for your vehicle to explain it better than I can via e-mail.

-PapaRick

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Henry Hansteen wrote:

Reply to
Rick Colombo

Sounds like you're talking about the Proportional valve and it's not working for you as it should. There is a trick to bleeding with one, there's a part that you push/pull at appropriate times while bleeding the front and rear. This device controls the difference in line pressure which is necessary because the front brakes are designed to do more of the braking than the rear brakes. This is more prevalent when the front brakes are disc and the rear are drums. You should get a manual for your vehicle to explain it better than I can via e-mail.

-PapaRick

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Henry Hansteen wrote:

Reply to
Rick Colombo

Thanks for the info, Rick. The part they replaced wasn't the proportional valve, though - it was a part of the ABS system, but I can't recall the name. Anyway, I'll ask the service manager about the bleeding procedure. Sure feels like air in the system to me. Henry

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Reply to
Henry H. Hansteen

I can't lay my hands on the article now, but I have seen several postings and read in my local paper about folks with that Ranger having rear end accidents because the pedal went to the floor and braking action was missing. Ford refused to admit liability. In some cases the problem was intermittent so the brakes appeared OK when Ford checked them.

Reply to
MaxAluminum

First off it's a truck....

They do not stop like cars.

Second if you can lock the rear brakes up in a truck, the brakes are broken and need to be replaced.

Locking up the rear wheels in a truck will make you spin 360's faster than you can blink and way back in the 70's at least in Jeeps they started putting a combination or proportioning valve in to prevent rear wheel lock up as a safety feature.

Then you have ABS and that just plain won't let you lock up the brakes period!

This usually means a lot longer stopping distance and a soft spongy pedal, especially on snow and ice as you seem to have noticed.

Hey, but you can still maybe steer it into the ditch with the ABS, if you can't avoid hitting the vehicle in front of you....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Henry Hansteen wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

The brakes are most definitely not working properly. When they were working properly, the truck stopped *very* well.

I pulled the ABS fuse, so the rear wheels should most definitely lock up, especially when I apply them on hard packed snow or ice. The parking brake will lock the rear wheels, so the brake pedal certainly should.

That was meant as silly joke, I hope....

The pedal was high and firm before the brake system developed this problem. There is definitely a major problem with the brakes on this truck. I'm pretty much convinced that there's air trapped in the system somewhere. Seems the proper bleeding procedure is more complicated than I thought for this ABS system. I'm waiting to hear from the shop to find out if they're aware of it and followed it.

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Reply to
Henry H. Hansteen

No sir, they are two independent systems. One is a cable, the other uses hydraulics and a proportioning valve still to make sure the rear wheels don't lock up on you.

Most definitely not!

Try it sometime on snow/ice and just lock the rears with the e-brake. Make sure you have lots of room...

Having the rear brakes lock up on a truck or SUV or station wagon is big time bad news unless you are using the e-brake when ice racing so you can do right angle corner slides.

You are likely right from that description.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Romain

Maybe I missed it, but have the rubber hoses been checked or replaced? They could cause a spongy feel and if on the rear, it may prevent the rear brakes from ever building enough pressure to grab (I don't know how the proportioning valve works, but if it is volume based, the rear brake system could use up the fluid it is provided by expanding the pads to touch the drums and then swell up the rubber hose). I thought the brakes were "properly adjusted", so the brake shoe travel shouldn't be the problem, but if there isn't any air in the system and the master cylinder is functioning corectly, the fluid is going somewhere...

Reply to
bobby

If the d'ship cannot cure it, try 'gravity-bleeding the brakes: open the bleed screw just enough to allow fluid to ooze via gravity. Ensure MC is full on both reservoirs. Let it sit several hours, keeping MC topped off. Tighten bleed screws. Manually adjust the rear shoes. (I'm assuming disc on front with drums on rear & with anti-lock on the rear only.) If you aren't sure when rears are tight enough by feel, get a mechanic who is familiar to help. This procedure alone could--could--reduce pedal travel and alter the "feel". This should at least allow for air to be bled AND for rears to have correct travel. With all else good, "good feel" should be restored. HTH & good luck. sdlomi PS: ENSURE you are using quality (repeated, "QUALITY") pads and/or shoes. El cheapos can give a weird 'feel'. And remember: good brakes are cheap insurance! They deserve professional service!

Reply to
sdlomi2

"Rick Colombo" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@Ameritech.net...

Reply to
Anthony Diodati

If you can find and of that info, I sure would like to have a look. The dealer has now put $1200 worth of parts on my truck, and the brakes still suck. The pedal travel is way too long, it won't even skid the rear wheels on packed snow, and they're trying to tell me it's normal, and the brakes work fine.

Reply to
Henry Hansteen

I was under the truck today while someone pushed the brake pedal. I watched all three flex hoses hoping to see one of them expand, but they seemed solid.

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Reply to
Henry Hansteen

Why not open a bleeder while the brake pedal is pushed? That's much more conclusive.

Reply to
Chas Hurst

What would that conclude?

Reply to
Henry Hansteen

It would conclude that fluid is reaching the rear brakes. What can you conclude from an expanding brake hose?

Reply to
Chas Hurst

That it would. Fluid is reaching the rear brakes, but under very low pressure.

That would have told me that the hose is damaged, and instead of the fluid expanding the brake shoes, it's expanding the hose.

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Reply to
Henry H. Hansteen

The brake hose could obstruct the flow of fluid without expanding. Further more, the usual symptom of a restricted brake hose is the brake not releasing. Have you opened a bleeder yet?

Reply to
Chas Hurst

Yes, but I doubt that would give me excessive brake pedal travel and weak bakes on all four corners.

Yep. I bled them before I took it to the dealer, and the dealer claims to have bled them four times. My brakes release just fine - problem is they don't build enough pressure.

Reply to
Henry H. Hansteen

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