Clutch pedal force question

Seems like the clutch pedal on my 5-speed is awfully hard, is this adjustable somehow? Driving the thing in rush-hour traffic is a real PITT. (Pain In The Thigh.)

This is the first stick shift I've owned, so I don't really have much previous experience as a guide.

At this rate I'm gonna have one huge thigh and one regular one in a few months...

TIA

Mike

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Mike Patterson
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"Mike Patterson" wrote

What kind of vehicle? Often, increased pedal force can be a direct result of a worn clutch. But it really depends on the vehicle. A heavy clutch pedal might be normal for your vehicle...on other vehicles....the clutch pedal gets heavier the more the clutch wears...due to the angle of the clutch diaphragm fingers.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_Kai

Unless the clutch pedal operates a cable which is sticking or binding, there's no "adjustment" for the force required to disengage the clutch. The springs you're pressing against must exert enough force to keep the clutch from slipping when the engine's maximum power output is applied through it. One thing that may help is to evaluate your seating position. Are you stretching a long way with your leg, to get the clutch pedal to the floor? Your foot should be able to hold the pedal solidly on the floor, without feeling like you're standing on tiptoe. Try putting the seat a notch farther forward. It also helps if you don't try to recline in the driver's seat, but sit up as if you're in complete control. Just like with any new form of exercise, it takes a little time to get used to controlling a manual clutch.

Reply to
the fly

It's a 1991 GMC Sonoma (S-15 type, I think)

Got it from my dad for cheap, he told me it would need a new clutch soon, but it other than the force required, it seems to work fine.

I push, it disengages, I release, it goes. What else is it supposed to do? :-)

I just went to "howstuffworks.com" and went through their explanation of a clutch, so I see what you mean about the diaphragm fingers.

I have a friend who tells me it's not too hard to rebuild the clutch yourself.

Maybe I'll try it. Mike Mike Patterson Please remove the spamtrap to email me.

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Mike Patterson

I have less leg room than I'd like, I feel like I'm sitting directly above the pedals already.

After reading another post here, I'm thinking I need to rebuild the clutch, think I'll look into trying that myself.

Thanks Mike

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Mike Patterson

I'd take it to a honest transmission shop and ask if it needs work before getting into it yourself. I took my car to a small shop to ask about a noise. He drove it around the block for free and said it was wheel bearings. If you don't take it to an honest shop they can tell you anything. I've had that haappen too.

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Reply to
William R. Watt
1) See if you can find one in good condition somewhere and compare that clutch pedal force to yours. Perhaps you can find one at a used car dealer?

2) It's either got a cable or hydraulic clutch. If cable, perhaps the cable should be lubed or replaced. If hydraulic, perhaps you need a new slave and master cylinder.

Reply to
Bob Hetzel

|I'd take it to a honest transmission shop

Isn't that an oxymoron?? Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

| |1) See if you can find one in good condition somewhere and compare |that clutch pedal force to yours. Perhaps you can find one at a used |car dealer? | |2) It's either got a cable or hydraulic clutch. If cable, perhaps the |cable should be lubed or replaced. If hydraulic, perhaps you need |a new slave and master cylinder.

One oft-overlooked fact on clutch cables:

If your original cable lasted a long time, then broke, the replacements don't last as long, CHECK THE ELECTRICAL ENGINE GROUND STRAP. Often a ground connection will break, or the bolts will get loose and the connection oily, or a careless mechanic leaves the ground disconnected after a repair. Once this happens the electrical system must use the next best ground, which is usually...the cltuch cable. And that small cable is not designed for electrical loads. The cable gets hot and fatiques, and fails. But before it does, it often gets frayed and sticky, which increases friction and makes it a little "notchy". Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

If you have a hydraulic clutch, then you should be looking at the physical pivot points on the clutch pedal for binding. Maybe the cotter pin broke and the pivot post is falling out?

If you have a cable or hard linkage clutch and something like a centerforce clutch, then 100 lb of pressure is not unusual to need on the pedal to drop it down.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Patters>

Reply to
Mike Romain

| |If you have a cable or hard linkage clutch and something like a |centerforce clutch, then 100 lb of pressure is not unusual to need on |the pedal to drop it down.

Centerforce clutches don't require extra effort, they use centrifugal weights to add pressure at high rpms so they can keep the spring pressures near stock.

Rex in Fort Worth

Reply to
Rex B

"Mike Patterson" wrote

That's pretty much it. If the heavy effort is all that you are worried about, I'd probably just drive it until you get some indications that the clutch is worn out.

When the clutch is new, the diaphragm fingers lay almost flat and the angle of the fingers make it much easier for the release bearing to push the fingers in. As the clutch wears, the fingers start to move out away from the engine....the angle of the fingers increases, and my experience has always been (gm vehicles) that the force required to push the clutch in becomes quite a big higher. Usually a dead give away when it comes to diagnosing a worn clutch.

He's good, I usually just replace them myself...(grin)

Ian

Reply to
shiden_Kai

There ya go, see how clueless I am? :-)

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Reply to
Mike Patterson

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