stalling -- electrical problem?

1991 Geo Prizm (a Toyota Camry I guess) -- has been well-taken care of over the years, 114k and hoping for more.

A month or so ago I took it into my mechanic to have the starter replaced -- for a couple months once in a while it would refuse to start unless I gave the starter a smack with a broomhandle. Since I got it back, it stalls reliably once it's warmed up.

Starting is fine, and for the first 15-20 minutes operating it runs great. Once it's warmed up though, it will stall when idling at a stoplight -- usually this is preceded by a rapid set of clicks coming from behind the dash.

I know the mechanic had a bit of trouble disconnecting the alarm system when he was doing the starter replacement work. I wonder if he shorted something out, or if something electrical has just gone out.

-Rafe Tennenbaum

Reply to
ray field
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As far as I know, the rapid clicks could be relay(s) rapidly loosing voltage/current , probably from bad connection.

If he bumps a wire or connection, you could have some voltage drop.

Reply to
Tibur Waltson

To be on the safe side check the voltage drops in the starter system. Also, don't forget the basics of the battery itself. Test the battery first.

During most tests disable the ignition so the auto can't start.

First check the battery "no load" condition. It should be about 12.6V fully charged and about 12.2V for a 50% charge. If you don't get about 12.4V or higher charge your battery.

Voltage Drop testing the engine ground:

Positive lead (on voltmeter) to positive battery post and negative lead to negative battery post. Note the reading...this is your 'base voltage" for comparison.

next connect the positive lead to a clean spot on the engine block. Then connect the negative lead to the negative battery post. Crank the engine for about 2-3 without starting the engine and record the reading. If you have a min/max on your voltmeter use it.

A reading of 0.5 Volts or more is not so good. Clean the cables and ground.

DO THE SAME WITH THE CHASSIS GROUND. But turn on all the accessories, lights, fan, etc. see above for the reading.

NEXT CHECK THE BATTERY POWER TO THE STARTER SOLENOID:

Get your battery base voltage. (Should be the same as above.) Positive lead to positive battery terminal. negative lead to the POSITVE terminal on the STARTER selenoid. Crank for 2-3 seconds and get the reading. 0.3 volts is a poor reading. Clean connections.

Next we will test the starter circuit. Positive lead to positive battery post and negative lead to the positive terminal on the starter motor. Crank for 2-3 seconds, 0.8 voltage drop is poor. A defective solenoid will an excessive voltage drop so check you connections.

Do these test with a warm engine. You can do them with a cold and repeat with a warm engine.

I am assuming you have a 1.6 4 cyl engine.

LAST TEST FOR EXCESS STARTER CURRENT.

Hopefully you have an ammeter

Generally, your reading should be around 150-185 amps for your engine.

Reply to
Hank

well, i took it back to my mechanic yesterday, and he simply adjusted the idle: when it was warm it was going down to 500. we'll see how it behaves the next few days.

thanks for the detailed and informative responses.

-rafe t.

Reply to
raphael tennenbaum

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