Camry shaking when increasing speed

I would say maybe motor mounts.

Possibly (it's 9:30 pm and dark outside, so I'll check tomorrow), but when the shaking starts I seem to loose a lot of power. Would that be consistent with the motor mounts?

Bert

consistent

In view of it losing power as well as vibrating: Is it automatic transmission? Maybe its slipping altho there should be a low sounding noise in that case. If it's manual, a worn slipping clutch will slip and grab if its got oil on it leaking from the rear crankshaft seal. Leaking rear c/shaft seals are not unusual if the car has had to few oil-changes sometime in its life.

Maybe one cylinder is miss-firing under acceleration. This causes a lot of vibration as the dead cylinder has good compression and constitutes an unbalanced load on the other cylinders causing bad vibration. A common cause is ignition breakdown under acceleration. The spark for the cyl in question, goes to earth elsewhere than across the plug-gap. The increased intake air-fuel charge presents a higher resistance once compressed around the spark-plug electrodes,

Check the age of the plugs and mileage Check spark- leads for resistance with an ohm meter should be less than 15k ohms,..if OK consider replacing the distributor cap.

Jason

Good tips Jason. Another good check is to look at plug wires with engine running in the dark. Many tiimes you can see the spark jumping or a blue glow around the plug or wires. If so, check for loose connection and if not then replace wires. davidj92

I had a similar problem it was bad spark plug wires, could be a coil to. Mine idled fine , under load it missed an was firing on 3 cilinders. If wires are old replace them or testing it on a scope is needed so you can put a load on it.

My last set of aftermarket plug wires failed after 30000m Go Toyota if you can

m Ransley schreef

It turned out to be a spark plug problem. Replaced the plugs and now it runs fine. The plugs look like this:

I'm not sure however if this is the cause, or the symptom of something. Any guesses?

Bert

VERY good. The second one from the top has two problems. The sealant between the metal case and the porcelain has been leaking compression for a long time. Second, obviously the porcelain has cracked clear up to the terminal end. Cracking like this is often the result of using a deep socket with one of those damned rubber grippers inside the socket. Porcelain is very brittle and with these "grippers" it takes very little lateral pressure to crack the porcelain.

I replaced my spark plugs yesterday. How are you supposed to do it without the spark plug socket that has the rubber grippers inside? The hole is so deep I wouldn't want to drop the plug in there and break something.

You cut a piece of rubber hose ... one with sufficient diameter to slip over the porcelain AND long enough to allow you to use your fingers to start threading the plug into the head. Once started, THEN use your socket ... the one without that rubber insert removed. :-)

without

We all have our own opinions on things and I disagree with Phil on the rubber sleeve inside plug-sockets. They are there:

!. to stop the plug insulator from being broken by an excessively tilted socket under torque. This is more likely to happen on engines which have the plugs at an angle (virtually all 6 and 8 cylinder engines and a lot of 4s)

and 2. as a holder so there is no dropping of the plug as the operator tries to align the plug with the threaded hole in the engine's head.

Jason

Jason. Will it suffice it to say your view is not supported by experience? CLEARLY you have not thought out your position. You risk fracturing the porcelain when you angle the socket to the point contact is made with the porcelain. WHEN you install a sleeve inside the socket, you have effectively eliminated the clearance between the porcelain and the socket that would otherwise would be there. That rubber sleeve INCREASES the risk of fracturing the porcelain when you leave it installed while tightening the spark plug. Think about it.

experience?

Phil,..I've used both and keep one with and one without on hand. In the early days I have busted the insulator using one with a long extension, knuckle and T-bar.

WHEN you install a sleeve inside the socket, you have effectively

I think it is designed to cushion any unwanted contact.

Jason

Philip schreef

socket

pressure

Philip, thanks for your explanation, and thanks to badgolferman, Jason James, davidj92 and m Ransley for helping me fix this problem! Bert

Bert, thank you for those pictures. One of the telltale signs of the 'better' spark plugs is an absence of (what I call) "blow-out" marking. This would be the obvious burn marks on the porcelain where it seals at the spark plug's metal case. Strangely, I find this phenomenon on ND plugs quite often.

Your thought process is bankrupt. AIR (aka: distance) is the best way to prevent fracturing the porcelain. The fact that the rubber sleeve grips the porcelain sufficient to retain the spark plug in the socket precludes any "cushion."

the

Phil,..if you visited a number of mechanic workshops, you would find some using plug-sockets with and some without,...and a further number with both.

The primary purpose of the sleeve is to simply hold the plug,..the secondry effect is to reduce or eliminate (in the instance of a new socket where the rubber insert has a snug fit around the insulator) the tilt angle all together. The insert tends to distribute any unwanted side-force along the length of the insulator reducing instances of breakage.

With a socket without any insert, the tilt may happen suddenly while under tightening torque. This is where plug-insulators are broken the most easily. This effect was more prevalent with some older larger hex plug-spanners which had a larger bore.

Jason

I had a CAREER working for different dealerships and private shops. That's the experience I speak from.

That's the idea. However the unintended consequence of keeping the socket centered on the spark plug insulator is MORE broken insulators than occur using sockets without the rubber insert.