I am having problems starting. It will crank for several tries before
it starts. Each time it seems to take longer. When I restart it after
running, it fires right up. I replaced the fuel pump about a year ago.
When I turn the key, the fuel pump powers up normally. I checked the
fuel pressure and it is normal. I just replaced the fuel filter, no
help. I tuned it up a year ago also and just checked the plugs, all
fine. I replaced the distributor cap and coil but not the coil module.
The wires were replaced also. I am thinking it is clogged fuel
injectors or maybe the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure is
reading normal while running. It runs without missing. It accelerates
normally but when I floor it, it bogs badly. I am going to replace the
oil pressure switch but I cannot locate it. Any help would be
I am not positive but I don't think my year has a replaceable module in
the distributor. It does have a ignition coil module that connects
directly to the coil. I have not replaced it but I have replaced the
News Skimmer wrote:
I'm having the same problem in my 1997 K1500 Z71 right now. I've just replaced
the intake manifold gaskets & found out that after removing the distributor
(which had its' clamp not so tight) the only way to get timing back in order is
to hook up to a scan tool to have cam retard set to 0 degrees. The module in the
distributor itself is no longer a pickup coil, it's a cam position sensor. It
has to be synced to the crankshaft sensor to properly control ignition advance.
I'm having this done tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get back to virtually instant
Did you have the same issues before it finally wouldn't start? This
seemed to happen over a month's time. I wanted to try everything else
before I tore off the upper and lower intakes. Also that is the only
way to get to the fuel injectors for those year 350's (no fuel rail).
I thought the injectors were the problem.
Yes, my starting issues have been coming on for several months. It hasn't got to
the point of no starting - just very long cranking. I was thinking I had a weak
regulator & intermittent fuel pressure drops. You don't have to take off the
lower intake to get at the injectors or the regulator. With 132,000 mi. I
thought it was time for gaskets anyways so I replaced them & the regulator. Then
I realized the cam position issue. On the first start after the work last Monday
it started great. Been getting worse again since then. I'll see what happens
today after the shop does the sync job.
Well my truck wasn't far out of sync. Only -4 degrees off. Crap - I wanted to
see more than that. It does run better though - I didn't have the stumble during
acceleration that I had while driving to the shop. Starting has improved but I
thought it would be even better. Possibly time will help to relearn some
settings. Took 10 minutes at a local shop & I was only charged $25.00. Cheap &
now I know it's set right.
I pulled off my upper intake manifold and holy crap, there was so much
gunk laying on top of the lower intake and puddles of gas. The
injectors are really funky too. I plan on replacing the regulator
while I have it off. I am in the middle of pulling off the lower
intake and of course there is one problem bolt underneath the AC
compressor bracket. Let me know if you pulled off the power steering
pulley to get that bracket off. Did you say you replaced any of your
I didn't replace any of my injectors - just cleaned everything off down there.
Messing around with that AC bracket looked like too much work to me. I used a
hole saw & removed some of the casting directly over that one bolt. Problem
solved forever. That bracket should have been cast that way to begin with in my
view. I don't feel I've weakened it to any appreciable degree.
Well I believe I found my problem. I have a code scanner/simulated dyno software
for my Windows based laptop. I get nice live data graphs of major sensors. I
felt that my throttle position sensor might be questionable so I've been
monitoring it for several days. No luck - graph never gave me any glitches,
spikes, etc. Voltage check through sensor was good too. Damn. So what, a new one
only cost $28.00 so I bought one. Took off old unit to find that it had about
.100" end play! Hmmm. Put on new unit - acceleration & quick starts came back
after a day of driving back & forth to work. Yahoo!
I am having it put on a scan tool today at the shop to have them sync
the cam position sensor. It seems to run pretty good right now after I
have rebuilt the heads and replaced all of the fuel injectors and
regulator. I did think about replacing the throttle sensor but never
got around to it. But for $28, you might have a good point.
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