would like to get opinion from this news group. I was driving one day and
presses breaks car stopped. After released brakes car didn't move. I
accelerated and I could see rmps went up but nothing happened. I switched to
parking and back to D5.
After everything went to normal. It happened twice. I just had 30K service
and all latest recalls were installed. They inspected transmission and
didn't find any abnormalities.
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
I recently purchased a '98 Acura - I've never had leather seats before - can
anyone suggest a good cleaner and conditioner. I've heard that you should
not use a single product but 2 separate ones.
SSSup! DUDES! got da word from my 'rents that
gonna get a new car now that im 18. i wan t to get
either an accura tl or a g35 or Bmw330 ... all new.
I lik e the power of the g35 but the 330 has more stylin
with my crew and the tl is good to. if you have one of this cars
witch one would you get? my posse says the tl is show
no go cuase its got no power and it front whel drive. but i like
the looks and some beotches i know have one. is it a chick's
car? let me now soon cuase i m going to get it soon and it
will be my 2dn car since i kinda had a reck in my first
(a Mutsang gt 2004 ) chill -badazzzracr
Hi all -
I have an 02 TL-S, purchased at ~20K miles, now at 64K miles. When I bought
the car (CarMax), the rotors needed to be resurfaced - done by CarMax. I
had them turned again at ~30K miles by the dealer, then all 4 rotors and
pads replaced by Acura for free under a Service Bulletin at ~40K miles (the
bulletin was for the pads - and included new pads and rotors - WOOT!). I
had these turned again at ~50K, right before the warranty expired. At 60K,
they needed it again, so I took it back to the dealer hoping they would
resolve this once and for all as this is an "ongoing" problem - no dice.
The dealer was sympathetic, and forwarded the request to Corporate Acura who
told me over the phone after a 3 day wait that they will not warranty rotors
outside of the 50K coverage, period. So I waited a few months, and just had
them turned again with the purchase of new tires at 64K. That is FIVE times
in ~44K miles (20, 30, 40, 50, 64).
I really don't have a problem with the 50K issue as I know this is
considered a "wear item", and the pads are wearing evenly - so I don't
believe this is an issue with the calipers (but looking for guidance). Is
there anything outside of my driving style that could explain the problems I
am having with these? This was my last "turn" on this set before they need
to be replaced again (in 10K miles), and I will likely go with slotted or
drilled for my next set to hopefully alleviate the problem. I'm 35 years
old and drive around most of the time with a 2 year old in the back seat - I
don't think I would really consider myself an aggressive driver. My
previous cars were a '91 Integra, '87 200SX, '88 Legend, and '99 Honda
Accord......I never had this type of problem with any of these. I also
know the TLS has oversized rotors compared to the regular TL anyway, and I
would expect a longer life from these things - everyone I talk to (including
the dealer) says this is not normal, but say everything else looks OK and
the brakes seem to stop just fine - no pulling, etc., when braking.
Any ideas ?
then all 4 rotors and
What for? Chances are they didn't need it.
Again why? Who's telling you all this 'resurfacing' needs to be done?
Of course not! Their bottom line needs you!
What for? What's the need for all this rotor turning business? Never
turn Honda rotors, it's not worth it. If they're bad enough to really
need turning ( grooved more than 1/8 inch) replace them.
And I'll bet not one of them was necessary!
Yeah, somebody is telling you your rotors need turning when they
Do you race? Do you drive down steep mountain grades? If not you don't
need slotted rotors. You need an honest mechanic, and I don't mean a
Yeah. Next time you're told your rotors need turning, spit in the guys
eye and go look for an honest mechanic.
Um, ouch. :-)
I should note that all of these save the last one were done for free....so
no real skin off my back until recently.
Thanks for the reply. As for WHY I have them done - vibration when braking
is the symptom...begins at higher speeds, and as time goes on becomes more
noticeable even at lower speeds. I have *Zero* problems outside of braking.
Turning / replacing the rotors has resolved the problem every time so
far.....but just for a little while. I realize replacement may be better
than turning, but if replacements only last the same mileage - why bother
with the expense? My most recent visit for tires included brake inspection,
including a nice long discussion with the mechanic who could find nothing
wrong outside of the rotors, and measurements on the rotors confirmed that
they did indeed need to be turned (Sorry I don't remember the numbers). The
dealer supposedly checked each time as well, and came to the same
I am trying to determine WHY I should spit in their faces - can you give me
a reason why I might be experiencing these symptoms, since I have even brake
pad wear, and why turning the rotors would resolve it temporarily ? I
should note I have heard in the past that improperly torqued lug nuts can
cause issues with rotors - I always loosen and re-torque my wheels after any
service visit to 80 ft/lbs. I also have not noted any rust, etc., when
mounting the tire that I would expect to cause a vibration. I also don't
race, and I live in the flatlands. :-)
"Mike" wrote in
By then,the warping may have already started.
Does this always happen on the same wheel?
(maybe a wheel has unlevel surfaces on the inside that mates to the
Maybe the problem moves as you rotate wheels?
Do you tighten the lugs in a cross-pattern,or just go around,one after
Do you snug them down first,then torque,or just tighten to torque spec?
Perhaps one stud has thread damage,throwing off the torque reading?
I believe that rotors are only able to be turned once,then they get too
thin to be turned again.(legally)
Some here are of the opinion that turning the rotors even once makes them
prone to warping.
Warping would cause vibration when braking.
Count me in that group who suspects rotors that have been turned are more
susceptible to warping. I don't have any evidence but I did stop having
rotors turned as soon as I could afford to. My belief is that the reason for
minimum thickness being less than new thickness is to allow for wear. Also,
I think rotors that have been turned because they were warped will re-warp
because of stresses formed during braking when they were warped - it seems
likely any rotor that doesn't brake evenly will also heat unevenly during
Somebody recently directed me to a website that had a section on brake rotor
warping. It made a lot of sense, pointing out that what we speak of as
"warping" isn't lateral runout, where the rotor is bent, but is variation in
the thickness of the rotor as it rotates. Just like the acceleration bumps
on a dirt road, the thickened areas get worse as time goes on.
Disclaimer - I am not an expert on this, these are my own beliefs.
I don't think adjustment will help the chatter, but a thought: I have had
intermittent chatter from (believe it or not) funky engine operation! My '70
Volvo would do that when it was time to work on the points (like every
couple months - the distributor was notorious), and my '84 Nissan 300ZX
would do that when the injectors were dirty! A tank of Texaco gas or a
bottle of fuel injector cleaner had it clutching smoothly within 100 miles.
It may not be the answer to your problem, but it is cheap and easy to try
while you search for other potential problems.
I think you have a hydraulic clutch - if so, bleeding is also cheap and
easy. Another fairly long shot, but....
Does anyone know when The Database and software versions should be updated
by the dealer?
I am referring to the versions available from the setup menu(system
information) not the DVD version.
What is the mileage on your clutch?
The average life is less that 100k and you are probably getting the
signs for a retired clutch.
The dealer tells me that there is no adjustment for the pedal travel.
The solution is a replacement but he suggest that I keep driving until
it shows the signs you are talking about because he has seen clutches
with more than 200k . Probably lots of high way driving.
According to the 1990 Owners Manual it states that Clutch Pedal Free Travel
is to be adjusted every 12,000km or so. It also states that driving with the
clutch pedal free travel out of adjustment will result in premature clutch
Vlad wrote in
The 90-93 Integra has a cable-actuated clutch, and it most definitely DOES
need to be adjusted (at the release arm). Clearance should be checked at
every oil change. Forget that 12K mile interval specified in the manual.
Pull the cable up off the nut's seat. It will come up easily, with only a
little effort. There ought to be slightly over 1/8" of space between the
nut and the seat. If not, spin the nut with your thumb until you do get
If the nut cannot be easily pulled off the seat, the clutch is severely out
of adjustment and it is entirely possible that the pressure plate will be
prevented from clamping the friction disc properly and it will chatter as
though it were worn.
If there is less than 1/4" of thread showing *above* the big plastic nut,
you're running on fumes, so to speak. And that's where I am right now with
mine. I expect it to start slipping any day now...
Honda clutches will last ages if the right sort of driving is performed.
Mine is at 244,147 miles as of today.
I have plastic edges (black) on the wheelwells of my 90 Integra to
"supposedly" prevent the edge from rocks etc.
My autobody shop said these should be removed as water gets between
the metal & the plastic and causes rust to speedup. Which is the case
of my baby. He said the newer Acuras no longer have these.
How do you remove them? Are they glued or do I just rip them off?
BTW, I am not referring to the after market, cheapie moulding that
some users put on.