More to it than that if it's an 8 lug.
Been a while, but I'll try to remember. Remove the caliper. Then remove
the center axle shaft nut. Then you'll find four (4) bolts on the back side
on the square part of the hub. Remove these. I want to say you'll need to
disconnect the upper control arm, but I think Ian said he's not ever done it
this way. Once the hub and rotor assembly is off, you need to pound or
press out the studs.
Then your rotor is separated from the hub assembly.
Did I miss anything? Ian, feel free to chime in here.
Well it is an 8 lug
I dont think it is a 3500 but I could be wrong. I could also be off by a
How hard is to remove the bolts in the back of the rotor?
Is there any chance they will not break off????
they shouldn't break off. They're good steel. You're talking about the (4)
on the back of the hub, right? No, I highly doubt you will have trouble,
except for they may be awkward to get to for you.
The studs should be nice and tight. I'd use a drift on a solid workbench
and drive them out with a heavy ball peen hammer. Otherwise, you can press
them out, too.
That was tough.
The bolts were on the verge of stripping so I had to remove the brakes
holding the ball joints on. Then use an impact driver to remove the bolts.
Would a brake shop have charged extra to remove that style rotor?
"Snowman" <somethingorotherdotcom> wrote in message
they probably go by flat rate, so you would pay whatever the book says it
takes as far as time is concerned. In short, yes, you would pay more than
you would for a half ton.
Keep something in mind, though - you can have all the power in the world and
never hurt anyone, but if you can't get that machine stopped, you may kill
someone. Your brakes are one of the most important parts of your truck,
ESPECIALLY, if you tow.
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