93 Silverado Common Problems? Doc?

Also, what shocks would you recommend for this beast? I was thinking the Rancho 700 series myself...

I have the 3500 so there may be some differences between the problems we face.

Tailgate falls open on rough roads (TSB on this) Idler and Pitman arms need replacement about every 2 years. Alignment probs due to above problem. If it has oil cooler the adapter leaks a lot and I've had to replace several gaskets on it.

4X4 actuator is heat activated, generally speaking, replace it with electromechanical. Serpentine belt tensioner needs replacement pretty frequently, every 100,000 miles ( some may not consider that a problem). AC accumulator located low pressure switch goes out two or three times a year.

That's all I can think of.

Thanks for that info.

None of those have happened so far, and believe it or not the 4x4 actuator still works great...

Later

Inline..............

Not on the 1500's.......

Not on the 1500 Chassis. Still have the originals on mine @ 150k.

1500 likely doesn't have one, unless it has the towing package.

Yep, that's a beastie................

My original lasted 120,000 miles which I do not consider all that bad.

Never had a problem with them on any GM truck.

Doc

I run Gabriel Sport Ryder's on mine ($25/each at Autozone with lifetime warranty) and love them. Great ride, great handling, 40k on them so far and they're still working great.

Doc

Inline................

Slip yoke is a given, never had any problems with brake rotors. The self-adjusters on the rears rarely work which can cause the fronts to overheat/overwork which will eat pads and rotors. I rotate my tires every

6k and check the rear brakes every time. If you remove the top spring on the rear assembley you can get the self adjuster out without having to remove the whole assembley. Disassemble the adjuster, clean the threads with a wire wheel on a drill, and apply a light coating of nev'r seize and they should be good for a few years.

Fuel tank sending unit (not the pump, the octopus lookin' thing it sits in) has a tendency to rust out where the lines exit the tank, so keep an eye/nose out for that one.

Taillight circuit boards will inevitably grenade and cause your rear lights to go wacko.

Aside from normal wear and tear items, those are the only "common" problems I can think of.

Great trucks, durable as all hell and will run forever if you take care of them.

Doc

Thanks Doc, I was going to ask about them, as they are the cheapest at autozone...

Thanks...I'll keep an eye on those things you listed

Later

Edward

I bought em' more out of curiosity than anything else. I used to use nothing but Monroe Sensa-Trac on everything and decided to give the "cheapo's" a whirl. I really like em', they handle great empty, hauling or towing, and so far so good, 40k's worth of brutal miles on crappy, salty Appalachian highways and they're not even rusting yet...........

Doc

Oh, forgot to mention. I install a set of four Rancho RS9000's on my

3500 just a couple of months ago. It's a 1992 and it was riding pretty rough. The Ranchos really smoothed things out...as did a new set of tires and the front tires and wheels load balanced (GSP-9700 at Discount Tire for $20 a tire). Wow, what a ride now!

Hi guys, as far as the taillight circuit boards go , Does anybody know of another source for new ones at a good price? I've seen them on ebay for around $20 each. Anyone know of a better price? I sort of remembering someone saying they got them for about $25 per pair.

$20-$25 IS a great price. Dealership sells em' for $80 each; cheapest I've ever found new ones was $25 each.

Doc

Thanks for the info, mine are starting to look pretty ratty and will be replaced soon. Also, I always see new taillights for fleetside trucks for my truck (90 k1500). To me, the lights look the same for sportside. Anybody know for sure?

I have a '93 Silverado 350/SB-Step/4x4/Auto.

So far, here are that things I have had to replace in the last couple of years. I listed the price I paid, including labor:

- Brake discs (twice, $50 each pair). They keep warping! I keep wondering if I should get the slotted or drilled discs to help with cooling.

- Radiator. ($130) The entire bottom half of the core was plugged up. I was told that this is normal in hot climates (Arizona). From recommendations in this group, I bought a Modine replacement and it has run ice-cold ever since.

- Water pump. ($50) The seal died.

- Fan clutch. ($40) The old one started free-wheeling all the time instead of cooling.

- Pitman arm and idler arm. ($150) My mechanic told me that 4x4 Chevys are notorious for idler arms going bad. My steering is tight again!

- Door hinges. ($90) He said that ALL Chevys are notorious for door sag due to worn bushings.

- 4x4 actuator in the front diff. ($280) He said that the new one is of a new "generation" that will last longer than the original design.

It still has the original engine, transmission, and transfer case, and they have not been rebuilt or ever given me problems, except for recent low oil pressure in the engine. I'm checking into that. Still, for a 10-year-old

4x4 that has been WELL USED on and off road, that's not very much stuff to go bad at over 160,000 miles. It only adds up to a couple of payments for a NEW truck. I'll just keep my old one going. I hate the style of the new step-sides anyway. The steps are useless. One foot, sideways (maybe)...

Derek