'94 ac system help please.....

Once you've sawzalled the line, you're pretty much screwed. Gotta replace the evaporator now.

Doc

1994 1500 with a 4.3L and 211K miles - and the a/c finally cratered. i have replaced the compressor and condenser and put on new hoses, but the connection from the evaporator to the accumulator - right next to the firewall, was corroded and would not turn. so i took a saws-all and cut it off, hoping i could then turn the connection and i could at least get the accumulator side off - which i did, but the cap nut is still stuck solid and is beginning to twist the line. so i now have the tube sticking out of the firewall about 2 inches - so the way i see it i have these options: 1) IF there is some sort of plumbers-type connection that i could slip over the line - like an a/c hose that i can clamp over it, i could maybe mount the accumulator at a slightly different location and just run a hose to it. or - 2) i have to replace the line from the evaporator to the accumulator - which appears to be no small feat for access. yesterday my son and i took the entire dash system apart and still could not get to where i could change that line - and going that far i would likely want to replace the evaporator as well due to its age, right? so how the heck do you change it out? i imagine a garage is going to really be expensive for that..... 3) is there some sort of "accessory" evaporator and fan i can mount somewhere else and bypass the old one and just leave it where it is????? i like option no. 1 the best - i am hoping an ac guy could make up a custom hose to fit .... looking forward to thoughts... david in houston - where i need ac bad!!!!

-------------------- Once you've sawzalled the line, you're pretty much screwed. Gotta replace the evaporator now. Doc"

------------------------------------------------------------- BTW when you do have to cut an AC line for re-flanging or whatever I believe you need to use a PIPE CUTTER and not a saw which generates metal particles,unless the line is off and you can thoroughly clean it afterwards.Metal circulating in the system is a bad thing. You've got to replace the line or the evap (if there's no connection at the evap."some sort of plumbers connection" would not be able to seal at those pressures.Even a very small leak going 24hrs a day will empty the system over time.

gotchya - thanks. i have conceded that i will just have to replace the evap core. 5.2 hours of listed labor, so maybe i can do it in an entire weekend??? ;-)

Good luck, it's a massive PITA. Make sure you have lots of beer on-hand.

Doc

i futzed around a kittle and got the heater core exposed, removing that looks like no problem, i got a nipple to connect the hoses to bypass it so i can still drive it as i work on the evap core if i need to. . then it just looks like a matter of disconnecting some electrical connections then opening up the next plastic case above the heater core and there the evap core should be waiting for me, no?

i guess i am just wondering what is the biggest PITA? acccess doesnt look toooo terribly bad, some from the floorboard and some thru the glove box. i gues some of the mounting screws are not easily reached and then maybe all the plastic housing and venting is cumbersome to work around or take out?

r&r of the evap core is a 2 hour job parts about $100

2 hour job max to r&r the evap core