98 Checcy Balzer cuts out in overdrive.

Group,

Help, I am having a problem with a 1998 Chevy Blazer that is cutting out when it is in overdrive. The tach drops about 500 rpms and then comes back intermittently. If you downshift it does not exhibit the problem. Also, it is noted that the MIL light is not on and no codes are set. I already replaced plugs, cap, rotor, coil, module and wires. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It was also difficult to start and I replaced the ignition switch and the battery. The fuel pressure is right on and I replaced the relay and fuel filter too... I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the test port to check the pressure and drove it with the gauge under the wiper arm and observed no pressure drop when it was running. Also, I had the code reader connected and was observing the parameters and the only thing that showed up was a drop in the rpms when it started cutting out. Help...

Reply to
john smith
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Did you have a profession tech look at your Checcy Balzer?

Reply to
Meat Plow

Reply to
john smith

I can't help, but I also noticed that mine seems to cut out very briefly every other minute or so when cruising in overdrive at about 65 mph (2K rpms). It's sort of like a small hiccup. I'm interested in what you find out.

Tony

Reply to
Tony F

Check all of the battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight; this includes all grounds.

Doc

Reply to
"Doc"

Reply to
john smith

. . =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

98 Checcy Balzer cuts out in overdrive. On Jan 31, 2005, 8:33pm (CST-2) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (john=A0smith) chunked his scanner across the shop, ripped his ASE Master Cert patch off his right shoulder.....and screamed out ....... . . Group,

Help,

I am having a problem with a 1998 Chevy Blazer that is cutting out when it is in overdrive.

The tach drops about 500 rpms and then comes back intermittently. If you downshift it does not exhibit the problem. =A0=A0=A0=A0Also, it is noted that the MIL light is not on and no codes are set. I already replaced plugs, cap, rotor, coil, module and wires. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It was also difficult to start and I replaced the ignition switch and the battery. The fuel pressure is right on and I replaced the relay and fuel filter too... I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the test port to check the pressure and drove it with the gauge under the wiper arm and observed no pressure drop when it was running. Also, I had the code reader connected and was observing the parameters and the only thing that showed up was a drop in the rpms when it started cutting out. Help...

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D John John,

hold yer foot LIGHTLY on the brake pedal effectively eliminating TCC operation and see if the symptom goes away.

If what your feeling is lockup kicking in and out at cruise speeds in OD, then dropping it down in 3rd gear is forcing you to give the truck jest a bit more gas pedal to keep speed up.....which will bring throttle angle up past a sensitive spot in the PCM programming and keep the symptom from showing up in 3rd.

There IS....a PCM program update to address the prob if that's what it is......

However...... if holding yer foot on the brake pedal in OD stops the symptom....try this first........ buy some good throttle body cleaner and soak down the throttle plate and clean it up really good to eliminate any carbon buildup that may be holding it open jest a WEE bit. Then unhook the BAT NEG cable for a few minutes to clear PCM KAM, start it up and let it idle for a minute then go on another test drive and see if this "Cheap Reflash" does any good.

no gaurantees......

by the way......you said the MIL wasn't on..... you didn't say if any codes were in memory.

00 L O

MarshMonster ~grabs his crown royal....heads over to KJ's fer a ride on the toy...wonders if he should carry some wrenches~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Reply to
john smith

is it actually 'cutting out' or are the RPM's simply dropping ?

Reply to
TranSurgeon

Reply to
john smith

Sounds like the same problem I had with the 94. It would idle fine, start fine. But when going down the road as soon as it went into O/D and lockup it would buck now and then. Replaced the plug wires and cured the problem. It had been crossfiring through the insulation. To see if this is your problem, open the hood at night, take out the underhood light bulb. Look at the plug wire with the engine running. If you see ANY flashes of light from the wires, replace them.

Reply to
Steve W.

MarshMonster ~grabs his crown royal....heads over to KJ's fer a ride on the toy...wonders if he should carry some wrenches~

Nah, it's even got a standard wrench in there! Used to to take a wiped-out skag/carbide off a polaris today.

2000 ZR 600 EFI 1,100mi 599cc TBI (batterieless) Racing clutch/V Force III reeds.

I finally got to drive the thing today.. Just in a small yard, you know, nothing crazy. So I pull the sled off my friends truck. It started it up, second pull just like advertized for a TBI system. (one to "charge system" second to start). Let it idle while I opened up my new "Total Cover" snowmobile cover. Highly recommended, VERY nice. Covers from the ski's to the bumper. So she'z run for a few minutes, plenty enough for me to feel fine about rippin' round the yard a bit. Start featherin' the throttle - it hooks up and I take a slow spin around this guys house. Get back to the starting point and figger I'll giver a little goose. 1/2 - 2/3 throttle - ski's in the air! Doesn't turn well like that, but plenty-o-fun!!

GMC Gremlin

Reply to
GMC Gremlin

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