Black Dog's reply answers this question (But don't drop the glove box down,
pull it out)... But I would like to add that my 89 4X4 never had any heat
been like that since brand new. The book says (Clinton) the air temp coming out
of the vents at full heat should be about 140 F... More like 70 if I'm lucky.
meaning to 'fix' this for years now. I'm sure the cable needs adjusting...
another one of
those "next weekend" jobs. Funny thing though, it gets warmer when the fan is on
full high (3), but returns to warm at 2. Never understood why 1, and 2 fan
so much slower than #3.... #3 blows hard enough to pressurize the cab for
high atmospheric flight.
I had the glove box "out" before and i didnt see any problem with the cable or
bracket, but i will check again.
Im wondering how can i get at the door/vent or whatever and find out
for sure it is closing the right way.
someone told me they had a pencil in theirs one time that was keeping
it open a bit .
btw, in your truck , did you ever notice if you got heat when youi parked it
and revved the engine? when i do that i get all kinds of heat.
but i get about 70 otherwise like you.
I have already changed, my thermostat, heater core, heater core outlet hose,
topped up antifreeze etc.
Ok, I fixed mine... now I have heat!!! Have no idea why I waited 16 years to get
Argos, the following instructions are for our 89 chevys WITHOUT AC... but it
be the same with an AC unit, it's just that I never worked on one with AC:
1. Pull out the glove box. Four hex head bolts on the inside walls hold it in.
Use a flat
head screw driver to gently bend the box past the tabs that hold the door
2. Inside on the left is a white handle, about in the middle of the air
management system, with a
cable looped on it. When the white handle is fully pulled back toward the
the heater flap is closed for full HEAT. The control cable end has a white
slider with small teeth that is mounted in a black plastic female version.
3. Pinch the end of the white handle, and pull off the cable. Push the handle as
far as it will
go toward the drivers side. It should stop right about 11:00 o'clock. Set
your heat range
on full red. If the eye of the cable loop is even just a hair past the
mounting point on the
white handle, you wont get full heat! (On a really cold day, it would make a
4. With a fat, flat end screw driver, or a punch, push gently on the white cable
end until just
a tiny, tiny bit of white is still showing past the black plastic cable
Re-attach the cable end/loop to the plastic handle. You might have to set
the temp range
a'little cooler to align the loop hole to the white handle post, but that's
OK... you want
a tight seal on that door flap when it's closed. Also, if it is really hard
to push the cable
adjuster back, make sure the cable is not resting on a small ridge of the
upper air management
system. Pull it off there so it can have bending room towards the floor.
Bingo, your done.
thanks for the info.
interestingly enough i did pretty much what you are describing yesterday
the only thing i did different was i adjusted the little teeth thing
while the cable was set to MAX heat.
i see now that if i set it a little less than max heat before i adjust the
teeth, that it will give me a tighter seal when i push it to MAX heat,
(no one will understand unless they have looked at it :) )
So maybe i will readjust, after the cuts on my hands heal.
the other thing i might do is open the glove box and run the truck
and hold the white lever all the way to the left and see if the extra pressure
helps at all .
On your cable, where the teeth are connected to the metal bracket, is it pushed
into the bracket from the top down or from the bottom up ?
mine is from the top down, meaning the cable runs oiver the bracket, but it
seems like it would line up with the white lever betterif it was underneath.
(i beleive my truck had the dash replaced at some point)
Waht i would really like to do , is have a look at the door inside.
im still convinced there is a pencil or somethign in there.
anywone know how to get at that ?
My cable 'hangs' under the bracket. Nothing has been done to mine, so that's how
the factory set it up.
As far as getting into that flap area... didn't look at it enough to figure that
out ... but it looks
like a job to get to the top part. I believe you can see the bottom of the flap
if you pull the heater
core, but that's a guess on my part.
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