New to Chevys

You can use green stuff AFAIK. If you keep it fresh too, it will be allot happier. The 4.3 has intake gasket problems - period. There are updated gaskets, so if it's already had it done that's good. It may still be under warranty(just)? The 4.3L is a good engine otherwise, except in full-sized trucks. GM makes spectacular vehicles, especially trucks, but this isn't a good combination. Buy one with either a 305 or a 350 (there was like 10HP difference at that point). Or if it's got the "new engines" (I don't think so) the 4.8L or the

GMC Gremlin

Inline....................

NO! Not unless he gets ALL of the old Dex out. And I mean ALL. This means draining the radiator via the petcock AND pulling the block drains, then filling with water, and repeating this cycle till it comes out clear. Then the water can be drained and the green stuff put back in.

It's the 4.8L.

Not available in 2001. Just 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0

Nothing wrong with them. Just a matter of personal taste.

Doc

Jay,

Dex will mess the works up IF, and ONLY IF:

That being said, if you use distilled water and change rad cap + coolant every 50K you won't have any problems. The Dex doesn't "eat the head gaskets." These trucks do not have any head gasket problems. The 98's and older Vortec's (5.0 and 5.7) did have intake manifold gasket problems, but this was a faulty gasket design and not the fault of Dex. The newer motors (4.8, 5.3 and 6.0) do not have this problem.

Yours might be a piston slapper, but Ford and Toyota have just the same issues with their newer motors as well. Do a google search and read up.

Doc

I'd have to disagree with you. Although some people have had a lot of problems with their 4 x 4 switch or encoders etc. my 1999 K1500 goes in and out of 4 wheel drive faster and smoother than a manual shift does. I've never had any problems with mine at all.

Brian

So yes, you CAN USE IT. That's all I was saying.

Duh. Now I feel like a re-re....

Hmm, what year did that start? Because if I come to think about it my friend has a 98 with the 4.8L.

Ya, the encoder motor dies, etc. No motor if you use yer arm. IIRC the electronic T-case also uses clutch packs like an auto tranny, while the stick shift is either an all-gear or gear/chain transfer case.

GMC Gremlin

You COULD use urine and diarrhea in the rad as well. Would it work? No.

And so you should..........................he he he.

Well your memory is failing dude. IIRC it was 2000 that they started the new motors. Your buddy might have a 98' with the 4.3, but the 4.8 hadn't been born yet.

Haven't heard of the encoder motor dying on these newer trucks..................the switch can puke, but $60 later and you're good to go.

Doc

Actually, we got the new engines with the new body styles...1999 H

Depends on which body style you got in 1999. Mine is an early (looks like a

Brian

It doesn't "depend" on anything. The new engines came out in 1999 with the new body style. H

Blah Blah Blah

I had a 2000 S-10 ZR2 that needed the encoder motor replaced twice durring my 3 year lease. Not a big deal since it was under warranty. I've got a

So far, I'm not impressed with the pushbutton system. My K1500 has the floor shifter and that works every time.

-NW

And the 5.0 and 5.7 were no longer available the year after, which was 2000. The question was when the 5.0 and 5.7 were no longer available.

Doc

Thanks for all the advice. I bought the truck. Picked it up with fuel guage on E and service display window saying "Low Fuel". Filled it up with 25 gallons. Still stayed on E with "Low Fuel" showing. Drove it home 92 miles away. After burning off some gas, message went off and guage went to full. Intermittant. Now with half tank, when the needle drops if I hit a bump or bounce in the seat it goes normal and "Low Fuel" indicator goes out. I suspect the sending unit. Not looking forward to dropping the tank.

More serious issue: 92 miles to my house, all expressway except the last 2 miles. Got off the expressway and the oil pressure guage dropped to zero and display said "Low Oil Pressure". Not wanting to wait to see if it was another guage malfunction I instantly pulled off the road and shut it off. Started it back up, "Low Oil Pressure" message still on, guage still at zero and top end just starting to chatter. That verified the no oil pressure. Quickly shut it off. No bearing squeal, lifter noise just starting, and zero reading made me think oil pump went. Left it there about 2 hours and called towing company. Went there to meet them and tried starting again. Started right up, guage went up to normal, warning message went out and top end noise went away. 100 more miles and no problem. Oil pump is mechanical and can't fail then work fine again, right? I doubt these are related but worth mentioning: Was about one quart overfilled with oil, and discovered I drove all that way with front diff in neutral instead of

Summary: Oil pressure was at zero, 2 hours later was fine again. WTF?

Thanks,

Jay

Sorry to read about the troubles. Hope my 2004 Silverado isn't as troublesome as the MANY horror stories I've read the past few months.

Don't think I'll ever buy a GMC product again.

Ya know, the only thing you're going to READ about is the negative stuff.

Doc

Jay,

Hopefully you got at least a 30-day warranty? Take it back and DEMAND they fix whatever the hell is wrong or demand a full refund.

WRT the fuel gauge, Chevy gauges have always been a little scitzo, but have them fix it if you have a warranty. If no warranty, give it another tankful before you go dropping the tank. Running it down that low can bugger up the sender/float and at times another refill solves the problem.

The oil pressure issue is quite odd. What is the OP when you first start it up cold (in park, at idle), and what is the OP when it's hot, at idle in park?

Doc

The only time I have seen this in the past was a partially plugged oil pump pickup screen. After the car was driven a short distance the screen would plug completely and no oil flow to the pump. After it sat awhile apparently the gunk on the pick up screen would drop off and when started would have oil pressure for a short while until it plugged again.

Brian

That's exactly what I was thinking, hence the questions as to OP levels prior to the problem.

Doc

Nope, no warranty. Sold as-is. I gave the truck a pretty spirited test drive and it drove out fine. No leaks, no funny noises, smooth, strong and quiet. I honestly don't think they could have known about this wierd little problem. It was from a little B lot and they only had it two days before I bought it (checked it with Carcheck.com). They didn't even detail it out, just an oil/filter change and a quick wash.

I suspected that too and will reserve judgement until after a couple of tanks. Guages are a little wonky. Voltage reads 15 1/2 volts, but my VOM shows 14.3 @ warm idle, all electrics off.

According to the guage, about 50 PSI at idle in park, cold or warm. Peaks at 70 PSI at and above 3000 RPM parked or driving. I meant to mention that in my first post. What's it supposed to be for this engine? Have put about another 70 miles on it on freeway and around town and have had no further problem. As I stated, it was about a quart over filled. I drained and refilled to the proper level. Brainstorming with some friends, someone tossed out cavitation as a possible culprit caused by too much oil, high freeway RPMs, then sudden stop and slow (25 MPH) driving. Of course there's no solid theory, experience, or evidence behind this, just a wild as* guess. But we based it on our assumption that a mechanical oil pump either works or doesn't work. Is that assumption correct?

Thanks, Jay

BTW, this doesn't make me think that all GMs have "horror stories". I've had those with any brand mechanical device.