suburban 289,000 miles & counting

I've got a 1993 suburban with 289,000 miles original engine. The only things I have doe are: rplace a battery (2x) replace entire rearend (ruined a right rear seal & axle housing) replace alternator replace A/C compressor (twice) the thing runs pretty well and uses no oil. It has developed a slight roughness. Any ideas on what part is the next to go? I've heard timing chain and distributer.

Reply to
john h
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Per "john h" :

I'm aspiring to 250k - having 130k on it now.

I'm getting about 3,000 miles per quart of oil when running Mobil-1 and can make it between 3k oil changes without adding any when running dino.

You seem tb doing a lot better than I have with my '98 1500:

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00000: Hood spacers rusting badly & sloppy seat install 05000: STRANDED Rear brake froze 07000: Steering noise 13000: Bad tire 20000: Trans shifting problem 27000: Front rotors warped 29000: Burning Oil 30000: Violent shifts 1st-2nd 34690: STRANDED Alternator 35940: Xmission Valve Body... 36240: Serpentine belt replacement 37000 "Clunking" noise when starting from full or near stop 39000: Steering became hard momentarily 39800: Rear clunk starting to return in rear (re/37000) 61060: New sus parts 67120: Trans shift prob (like 30000/35940) 68260: Pads+turn rotors+ 75040: STANDED Crank sensor failed 75350: "Check engine..." lite 75837: Valve Body (trans) required rebuild 77100: Water pump 77439: Intake manifold gasket 85000: (approx) Wiper board 89000: Wiper board 98000: (approx) Serpentine Belt - preemptive replacement 98340: Alternator Failed 120000: Trip Speedo Failed

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Reply to
(PeteCresswell)

I have 180K on my 89 and replace very little on it. Still has same starter and altenator minus a new rear bearing in alt about 5 years ago. Water pump if you have not yet (mine went out around 140 K). You can check timing chain slop by trying to rotate dampner pully back and forth. If there is about 10 degrees or more sloop, timing chanin is getting loose and at about 15 degrees you are on borrowed time. Tranny maybe too unless you have serviced it regularly with fluid and filter changes. Yes on more thing, the gasket seal between the TBI unit and intake manifold is known to fail with age (mine did about 5 years ago)

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

John,

Excellent success with your 'burb! What kind of oil do you use and how often do you change it?

-Michael

Reply to
Michael

every 3000 miles with 10-40w texaco usually

Reply to
john hawkins

That reminds me. I have 342,000 on my S10 and I've never done the timing chain. If I do that should I get a new distributor as well?

Lannie

Reply to
LS

GM had train loads of stuck ring problems with 10w40 oil in 80's and not longer approves its use and has not for some time either.The high VI content can cook out and stick rings. You have been lucky.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Yes, I'm sure John was wondering why his oil pressure plummeted.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

My dad bought an 83 5.0L new. He used 10w40 as well. Also, everyone in the family used the "havoline supreme" oils of the past. Hopefully, today's Havoline oil is a good as before even though they can't use the "supreme" word anymore. I've always liked that it was honey-colored in the can...not like that brown Pennsylvanian stuff (that of course...isn't from Pennsylvania anyway).

Anyway, he put over 300K miles on that thing and finally gave it to the salvation army when he bought one of the first 97 Fords....too many strikes at the GM shop. Which might explain Pete's trouble with his 98....I was thinking 97/98 were strike years....but don't hammer me if I'm wrong.

Back to the 83, they didn't tow it...he dropped it off for them. The rest of the truck was falling apart...the only thing that had any life left was the engine....it didn't smoke, knock, or leak. To bad is was a 305, not a 350.

I guess he was just lucky.

Reply to
News Skimmer

As usual always a wise a$$. What ever flips your skirt.

The VI problem with GM engines and 10w40 was real (and likley before your time) and the reason you will not find 10w40 listed as aprroved in any GM owners manual for over the last 15 to 20 years. Some brands of 10w40 were worse than others.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Better a wise as than a dumb ass.

That would make it a GM problem, not an oil problem.

I still have the paper version of the TSB.

15 to 20 years? Anything that applied to motor oil *3* years ago is now obsolete.

I _do_ think you should be appointed as head luddite though...

Reply to
aarcuda69062

aarcuda69062 is such a inmature child that he is not even worthy of wasting any more time with in this thread. Knock yourself out as you are a legend in your own mind.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Making such statements is nothing but a convenient cop out to avoid having to substantiate the erroneous information that you post.

Quit the cop out.

Answer the questions posed earlier. Prove that what you claim is correct.

Reply to
aarcuda69062
289,000... This is nothing I have and use a 94 Burb everyday that has 417,000 + on it. No rust and everything works. I have run Mobil One 5W-30 in it since 44K and it doesn't burn any oil. I have replaced almost everything on the truck with the exception of the engine. 5.7 that has never been opened and still runs like a top. Replaced it with a 04 Avalanche last week and I am in the process of selling it now.
Reply to
Hot Rod

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