You do have a Service Check connector. I do not have the docs that would
tell me whether it's in the engine compartment atop the driver's shock
tower, or in the passenger compartment at the top of the passenger kick
Either way, it's a 2-pin connector, blue or gray. You short the pins with a
paper clip, then start the engine and do the timing thing.
Hmm, I've looked and looked and looked all over this car. The only
thing I've found is what looks like a two pin white connector that is
not connected to anything and has a black plug in it. It is neatly
secured to another harness by what looks like some sort of factory
tape. It looks like it's never been accessed. It is deep behind and
just above the glove box. I can see it through the seam between glove
box and dash using a flashlight. I'll need to remove the glove box to
get at it.
I can try shorting that connector and see if it affects the timing
when shorted. I'm just worried about shorting that connector if it's
not the right one.
Nope, that connector behind the glove box was not the correct one. It
was already shorted by some factory plug, and it was a white three way
connector, not a two way. I never did find the elusive "service
connector" to short out, so I gave up looking. Therefore, I had to
manually advance the timing a bit, because leaving the timing at the
designated mark without shorting that connector resulted in a spark
that was just too retarded. The car did not run well and exhibited
odd behaviors, like surging when put into gear from neutral.
Furthermore, without shorting the service connector I had to retard
the distributor to its physical travel limit to get it close to spec.
Even at that physical limit, it still read a degree or two too
advanced. There is no "bumping the distributor one tooth" on this car
because the distributor does not use a gear. The distributor can only
be installed with the rotor oriented one of two ways: The correct
way, or 180 degrees off.
So basically, I just reset the timing by using the old corrosion
imprints on the housing from one of the distributor lock down bolts
and washer. The car runs well there. Good reason to just mark the
housing with the cylinder head next time whenever removing the
This new setting reads at least 10 degrees advanced from where it
should be if the elusive service connector had been shorted. But,
since the service connector was not shorted when measuring the timing
I'm guessing this "eyeball" setting is pretty close, particularly
because the car is much happier there. The car runs well now and
doesn't misbehave. I'm leaving the timing alone at this point unless
that elusive service connector reveals itself.
And my docs don't go back that far for the 'Teg.
I don't know how much this car is worth to you, but I'm seeing
genuine Honda shop manuals for as low as $35 on eBay.
Knowing what I know now, I'd never own a Honda without also
owning a genuine Honda shop manual.
Just in case anyone else stumbles on this thread hoping for the answer; the
connector you are shorting is in the engine bay ("main") fuse box. You are
jumping a blue / brown wire to a brown wire. Good luck. I found the full m
anual as a pdf on g1teg.org/Acura/88-89IntegraFSM.pdf
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