86 4kq front axle removal

Jul 17, 2009 2 Replies

Greetings



Wow, this is embarrassing... In January I wrote in asking for advice re my brakes and promised I'd post a followup on the outcome of my prob. Leaker that I am, I never did, partly because the issue went on for so long--2-3 months--that I just lost touch. What happened was that after replacing my master cylinder, I couldn't get my brakes bled. Well, I could bleed them, but after a period of days to weeks I again had air in the rear lines. I won't go into the gory details, but in the end it appears the problem was a leak (a VACUUM leak??) at the clutch line spigot. After I trimmed the hose end and put on a good hose clamp the situation resolved. Oh, I also loosened the cap on the master cyl just slightly. Got good brakes now.



Now I'm doing the front cv joints. I'm sure I just need the outers, but whole axle assemblies are $75 whereas individual front outers are $135! Likely the difference between new and reman. Since I've redone the front suspension twice in the last 5 years, everything comes apart easy and I know the tricks. I even got the bolts out of the inners with no drama--no stripped heads or anything.



My problem now is I can't get the inners dislodged from their "cups" at the tranny. Gotta be just rusted, right? Tonight I sprayed PBblaster around the cups, and tomorrow if necessary (it will be I bet) I can apply some heat with a propane torch.



Would anybody have any pertinent secrets to reveal? If I absolutely can't get them apart I might have the option of disassembling the new axles and just using the outer cv's. I hesitate to do that tho--With my luck there'd be a snap ring issue or some such.



TIA



miguelito


Thanks TonyJ. I've been concerned about bearing damage to the trans from whacking on the cv from the side, but that's what I'll try. Cross my heart, I will give feedback this time.

miguelito

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