Burning oil smell

Once, when I thought I smelled hot/burning engine oil, it turned out to be transmission fluid dripping onto the exhaust system (the catalitic converter, I think).

Bob

info) at around 110mph for

smelling like hot oil comes

notice any level change. Any

cp, The turbo is in that area, as is the oil cooler, filter, etc.......engine...... Sounds like there's an oil leak in that area, the radiant heat from the turbo/exhaust manifold is burning it off. Chances are, if you pushed the car hard for 10 minutes and did an immediate shutdown, and it was dark out, you'd see the turbo glowing. The oil cooler lines are often brittle and leak a bit, the oil lines on the turbo can corrode and leak a bit, if the intercooler end caps are leaking they can blow a mist of oil out when you shift, old valve cover gaskets leak a bit, oil filter may be leaking, etc. etc. etc. It might be a good idea to pop the hood and have a look when it smokes like that. If you want to prolong the life of the turbo, you should be using synthetic oil.....and allow the turbo to cool off by running at low boost (ie - around 2000 rpm) for about

10 minutes before shutting the car down - regardless of whether you have an afterrun system or not. The combo of dino-oil and hot shutdowns will clog the turbo bearings with cooked ("coked") oil. BTW, the amount of oil needed to produce a fair amount of smoke will not show up as a change in the level on the dipstick. Make sure the heat shield is in place around the right side motor mount or the radiant heat will burn that as well. Blown head gaskets most commonly leak internally in the block/head - If you're concenred about the head gasket, check for oil in the coolant/coolant in the oil/whitish residue on the spark plugs. Run the car up to temperature, then pull the plugs and hold an inspection mirror over the plug holes - fogging = coolant leak into the cylinder. A compression check and comparison with the specs in the Bentley Manual will also help. Cheers! Steve Sears 1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

info) at around 110mph for

smelling like hot oil comes

notice any level change. Any

Will check, thanks!

Thank you for your reply, a lot of things for me to check! :-)

cp

cp, A good source of info on these cars (aside from here...of course...) is

and - and.....did I mention the Bentley Manual??? Cheers! Steve Sears

1987 Audi 5kTQ - CD edition without a CD 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

coolant/coolant

What's the best place to get that? (Bentley Manual)

Thanks! cp

cp, Probably eBay - you can get a new set (2 volume) from

or your local Audi dealer. You can also put up a Wanted ad in the Audifans classifieds - you never know how many people there have a set collecting dust for a car they no longer have. Cheers! Steve Sears

1987 Audi 5kTQ - well used Bentley Manuals close at hand (from eBay) 1980 Audi 5k - extra copy of Bentley Manual on hand...just in case (from local paper and used book store) 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - Factory Workshop Manuals (from eBay.de - used in conjunction with Babelfish) (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

Steve, I have another question for you. This Audi has a (maybe I should say THE) warm starting problem. I looked it up on this ng and found many posts, the first one was mine from years back when I had a similar audi, I forgot it had the problem. After reading most of the posts I'm still not sure where to look. The car starts perfectly when cold or hot but if it has been standing for 30-60 min it will refuse to start, it sounds like a dry start. It will start all of a sudden after cranking for a minute or two (with breaks of course). The idle will be unsteady and the engine sometime turns off. When started hot or cold it runs perfectly. Any idea where I should start looking for this problem? I have a bit of mechanical competency :-)

Thanks in advance for any help, cp

cp, Often the hot start problem is due to overheating the fuel in the lines above the manifolds. Try shielding the lines (the car originally came with a rubber cover around the lines) - my '87 has a similar problem and since I'm in the process of reinstating the A/C...and it's getting hot out there...I'm going to be insulating the lines. I'm making a cover (like the tattered original rubber boot that was in the car when I bought it) out of reflective foam core insulation - the stuff that some hot rodders use for firewall/underhood insulation. The basic problem is that the 10v engines have both hot and cold manifolds on the same side of the engine - and when parked, the exhaust manifold heats the intake manifold, and the fuel lines above (uh..."heat rises" was a hard lesson to learn?) the 20v changed to a better setup to allow for a Hot and Cold side. Make sure that the injector cooling fan is working as well - the thermo-switch is located on the heat shield at the back of the head over the wastegate (grounding the connection should start the fan). Another thing I'm tackling is that the intake air temp sensor is located in the intercooler - I'm moving it to just behind the throttle body on the intake manifold (when I get around to installing the bypass valve....etc. etc. etc.). The different location of the sensor will give a better representation of startup air temp to the ECU - don't know if that will make as much of a difference as the shielding. All that fails, check fuel pressures/fuel pump check valve/injector condition/etc. I have heard that some times the crankshaft reference sensor gets lazy when hot - that would throw a code you could read. Cheers! Steve Sears

1987 Audi 5kTQ 1980 Audi 5k 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)

"cp" wrote in message news:M0Bqc.12179$RM.9044@edtnps89...

Holy cow! Thanks a lot! I will try this ASAP!!

chris

Hi chris,

mine had a hot start problem and the autoelectrician found a faulty valve near the fuel pump. Once he replaced that, the problem was gone. He said the valve maintains the pressure in the fuel system for some time after the engine is switched off. This pressure seems to be necessary to start the engine when hot.

Unfortunately, he messed up the fuel gauge, so that I didn't realise I was running out. He repaired that now (for free), but it seems some dirt got cought somewhere in the tank close to the pump, so that the car starts to cut out when the tank is still 1/3 full. Have to find the time to go back at some stage.

Good luck,

Christoph

Thanks a lot Christoph, I will check this out. The problem seems to happen more frequently now. Starts up perfectly when cold, but when warmed up sometimes the RPM wavers and the engine turns off, when that happens, I can't start the car for like 10 minutes, if I "push" start the car, down hill in gear it starts perfectly, but not if I try with the key, it sounds like it's trying to start dry. When it does start, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from turning off. I'll try your suggestion, first I have to try Steve Sears' suggestion.

Thanks again! cp

Oh yes, when this problem happens there starts being hot oil stench.

cp

Hi,

like it's trying

I forgot to mention that mine behaved like a flooded engine when it eventually came on. That's why the mechanic in the Audi garage suspected the fuel injectors (he said they tend to leek into the cylinders and cause the flooding). Since new fuel injectors are quite expensive, he suggested I should ask the auto-electricians (Bosch service centre) whether they couldn't clean the injectors. There, they didn't even take the injectors out since the engine started fine after this valve was replaced.

The problem was worst on warm days with the car parked in the sun about 10 to 20 minutes after I stopped. It was really like flooded. I was always able to get it started eventually. I normally started as normal, just left it turn for 15 to 20 seconds without touching the acelarator. I then gave it a bit of a rest (I was very worried the starter might go) and tried again. Normally it would start after another 10 to 20 seconds, with the typical complaints of a flooded engine (irregular at first, then slowly faster and eventually run fine with a bit of fuel smell). I still don't have any idea why that could be caused by a loss of pressure in the fuel system...

But it runs fine now.