chance to buy 94 325i

"skeeter" wrote

There probably are online diagrams; most car manuals that you can buy at Schucks/Pep Boys/etc have them, too.

$400 sounds right *IF* the electronics are ok, *IF* the suspension is in good shape, and *IF* the rust is only superficial. You also don't want to put an engine too different from the previous one as the electronics/engine controls are matched to the engine.

Your questions show you aren't dumb, just inexperienced. You need the help of someone experienced to do an engine replacement if you are planning to do it yourself; it's not a job for a tyro, although arguably it's easier to do for BMW than Honda. Be sure to replace the clutch, clutch plate and throw-out bearing if it's a manual, and the guibo in any case.

FloydR

You don't mention where the rust is...

The only real rust trap on the E36 is the rear wheel arches, and be warned, it's usually worse than it looks. It's a double skin and traps dirt. The rust usually starts on the inside and works it's way through the inner skin. Then the damp can works it's way between the skins and eventually starts to bubble through from the inside of the outer panel. You see a small bubble, but believe me, there's 10 times that hiding under the paint!

Only other place I've seen rust is the lower boot/trunk lid corners (no problem, it's a panel, get a new one) and around the lower boot lip edge on the main body of the car where the rubber can sometimes trap moisture, again not too much trouble as it's not a visible area and you can do a good repair without having to worry too much about the appearance, what isn't covered by the rubber or light unit is hidden by the boot lid when it's shut.

Dodgy.