SI lights wont reset

Just had my car serviced but the mechanic reported that the SI lights wont reset. Its showing 1 orange light and 3 red - I've read that not resetting may mean that the batteries on the SI board need replacing but if that's the case wouldn't I have no lights showing at all?

Cheers

Steve

Reply to
Steve
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No, when the batteries fail a few things can happen. It's more common for the yellow and red to be on all the time! I'd fit new NICADs, but be sure to charge them before installation.

Reply to
John Burns

Yeah, really. You don't know what a troll really is. In your fevered imagination it's just a label that you want to tag on someone who disagrees with you. You're a nutjob, as anyone with half a brain and access to a search engine can verify for himself.

However, I don't have a dog in the fight you have with others, so I'll bow out and just continue to be entertained by all your calling the police and lawyers on each other, and your writing of endless "blogs" that conclusively prove whatever pathetic point it is you're trying to make.

Usenet kooks are entertaining, but it's not wise to engage them directly. It's a fundamental Usenet lesson that I had temporarily overlooked. I'm sorry.

Reply to
Dean Dark

OK. My work here is done.

Reply to
Dean Dark

Thanks - what type do I need and more importantly where to get them in the UK?

Cheers

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I haven't got the faintest idea what batteries they are, but if they're not a common variety you could try

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- I got those awkward-to-find batteries in Macs from there. Andrew

Reply to
Andrew Morton

OK - I've fitted the new NiCads (2 x 1.2V) but the batteries that came off the board were 2 x 3V Lithium batteries. The SI lights have now reset but the the OBC is behaving oddly - I can set it but it loses its memory when the ignition is off . It started displaying PPPP so I reset it and now it just displays UHR. Do I need to: a)Replace the SI batteries with the 3V lithiums that were there or b) get a new OBC?

Cheers

Steve

Reply to
steveloukes

Use the correct batteries. Lithium are actually 3.6 volts per cell rather than the 1.2 volts of a fully charged Ni-Cad, so I'd say the memory isn't getting enough back up volts. Also Ni-Cads are rechargeable and don't actually hold their charge very long unless being re-charged, so even if they had worked you'd have problems a few months down the line. Lithium are high capacity *non* rechargeable which *should* have a long life in this application.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

If I recall correctly this is a 1985 535i so there is no chance that the SI board was originally fitted with Lithium Ion batteries because there was no such thing in 1985. Ni Cads are the proper batteries for this board so whoever put the rechargeable lithium batteries on it may have damaged the electronics.

Reply to
Jack

The NiCads are indeed the correct batteries for this unless the SI board is one of the aftermarket replacements. You could replace them with the Lithium cells since it worked before but without knowing for sure... The UHR is GERMAN. Change it back to English and it will be fine. I don't remember how to do it right at the moment but I'm sure someone will remind me...

Reply to
Psycho

Ah, right. I've set my newsreader to expire posts after 14 days so haven't looked at the earlier part of the thread - if there is one.

It might well have - we're looking at severe overvoltage. Wonder what possessed someone to do such a stupid thing? Cells are marked with their voltage.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

But the original SI board has obviously been replaced. The BMW replacements now have 3v Lithium non-rechargeable cells

Reply to
stuart

Sorry - should have mentioned that the SI board must have been replaced as it had a date of 1994 on the back when I took it apart.

I'll put the 3v lithium's back - it'll be easy now I've soldered wires on and have the batteries in a seperate holder! Cheers Steve

Reply to
steveloukes

Make sure they are indeed ok. If you have access to an analogue DVM with a sensitivity of about 10,000 ohms per volt use that as it will 'load' the battery.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Ah - I meant I'd be fitting new ones as the originals are dead.....

Steve

Reply to
Steve

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