Picked up a used 4-channel amp off marketplace for next to nothing, seller was honest that the left channels cut out when it got warm. Opened it up and found a hairline crack in the board right by the speaker terminals, prolly from a hard drop. Trace was broken clean through but the rest of the amp was fine. Instead of trying to reflow and hope for the best, I scraped the green solder mask back a little on each side of the crack, tinned a short piece of solid wire, and bridged the gap. Key things that made it hold: keep the jumper as short as the crack is wide, follow the original trace path so it doesn't loop around, and stick a dab of hot glue over the wire so vibration can't work the joint loose. Car amps live a rough life and anything free-floating will eventually crack again.
One thing I wish I'd known the first time, and yeah I learned this the dumb way: unplug the amp from power and let it sit a bit before you solder. Big capacitors in there hold a charge and they don't care that you're in a hurry. Been driving with it for over a year now, cranking it at full tilt every weekend, and it hasn't dropped a channel once. Ugly as sin on the underside but it plays clean, so I'll take it.