a.c. help

Where do you get R12? I may want some in the future.

~KJ/TLGM

Did you just let it keep snowin' and make yerself a nice snow man? Still cool and rainy in new england.

~KJ/TLGM

Have you seen these freeze up do to low refrigerant? You put up with pretty much the same weather conditions as I do. Bob

You don't unless you have a commercial license.

Doc

SO you mean from someone with a comm. license and a wallet that requires lining. K, thanks. hehe

~KJ/TLGM

working...........when

great.....The

---------------------------------------------------------------- Or unless you have a certain foreign country near by.( $7.00 per can)

Brian O in So.Cal.

============== I bought a 30lb bottle back when the price started to go way up....Only used it on my own and friends cars. Still have about 3 or 4 pounds in it I think. Want to buy it? :)

========== If the humidity gets anywhere near 50 percent here, we cry like babies....:) Allthough the temp will get well over a hundred. Was about 93 today, allready, and its only April.

Nope, more like 25, would have to look it up to be sure....

Brian Orion sounds like he might be a better deal, specially since I'm blowin' cold fer now.

~TLGM/KJ

For what little it's worth,my trusty (NOT)"Haynes" manual for 67-87 Chev PUs states that the way to check for low refrigerant is " If the inlet pipe {to the evaporator} has frost accumulation......the refrigerant charge is low." So it would seem that low charge causes the liquid to start evaporating early.How that effects the coils I do not know. Speaking of weather,It was 99 deg.here yesterday but it's much drier than even San Jose since the wind comes off the Mojave desert.The humidity was 17%.I didn't even turn on the AC in the car ,just open windows.And I don't envy some of you guys in the muglands with that humidity.Never been out of the West myself but I did spend a few months in SE Asia and if it's anything like that you can have it. Forecast for Bangkok today:101 and thunder showers.

If you drive a hundred miles or so from the border and speak the local language without an accent you can buy it for about ½ that price. Just don't get caught when coming back. Smuggling carries the same penality, if you are smuggling R-12, dope, or whatever.

Sounds well worth it! Not!

Brian

Hi!

I didn't think you could get it at all any longer, at least in the US...I seem to remember hearing somewhere that CFC-based products were being phased out of manufacture???

William The Guesser

Hi!

I know I've asked before, but I didn't get much feedback on it that I could use...

I've got a totally dead R-12 system in an '84 GMC w/ 6.2. It worked fine but then it all leaked away and hasn't been touched in years. I'd like to convert it to, say, 134a and there are a few questions:

1. Is it something a person can do by themselves if they read some instructions and let someone who is trained do the actual charging?
2. If not, where can a person go to have it done?

1. What's the absolute least that has to be done for the system to be reliable and not blow up?

--and finally--

1. What does a conversion cost? (This is by far the most important thing. The old truck has a number of other problems that are probably going to be expensive to fix...)

I'd really appreciate some information on this...

William The Guesser

a lot of info on what you need or don't need. However there is noreal need to convert it, all the parts are available and R-12 wouldprobably be cheaper in the long run. And work better as well. Steve Williams

Inline..................

Hell, buy a $50 set of gauges and you can fill it yerself' as well.

Do it yourself, really not that hard. Make sure you get a gauge set with both low and high side gauges. Parts stores sell the low-side only for $20 or so, this is worthless as you need high sides as well.

Complete system flush. New accumulator. New orifice. Install high-side cutoff, in-line with the A/C clutch +12V lead. 134a retrofit kit for high and low side service ports. PAG oil + refirgerant. I'd also replace all o-rings as they will have dried out and crustified by now.

System flush requires a special machine, so you'd have to drive/tow it to the garage and have em' suck her dry. Accumulator runs about $75. Orifice is $20. High-side cutoff is $20. Retrofit kits are about $10. PAG is $10,

134a might run ya $30 for three cans.

Doc

================ The least you need to do? Go buy a conversion kit at the local auto store.(about $40) It is a very good idea to drain out as much oil as possible by removing the comp and accumulator and dumping them out. Get a new orifice tube while your at it($5) put it back together, evac, replace the same amount of oil you dumped with ester oil. Charge it up. The kit might come with a charge hose. If you decide to use it (without gauges) at least wear safety glasses in case you overcharge it and a high-side hose explodes. You do need a vacuum pump to evac it so if you dont have one you might as well have someone else charge it. GL