Mobile 1 synthetic

My 82 Chevy truck averaged 12 on a recent 190 mile camping trip to an Indy car race. After an oil change of 15/40 diesel truck oil . Tires at 75 psi. Up from about 6mpg due to poor maintenance. and retarded timing.

Many many years ago I was a Mobil 1 die hard. i ran a couple cars through their life on Mobil one. Im of the opinion now any oil produced now that complies with the SAE rating is worse then the oil that was available over

15 years ago. In other words. A SF oil is better then a SL oil. Due to the EPAs interference. This includes mobil one. The diesel truck oil doesnt comply and is better. Because trucks have flat tappets or solid lifters and cant use the new oils or the tappets wipe out.

My opinion, Fire Away.

Diesel spewed smoke and wrote:

Ive found I get a milage improvement whenever I change my oil. Any brand.

Probably is true, but the question is how much improvement will you actually see. Reducing friction will always increase efficiency. I think most all claims of lubricants reducing mpg actually do improve it, but so little you often can't measure it with daily driving, unless you specifically drive a route to work daily and keep good records. But if the gain is 1/100 of a mpg, their claim is still true. But with oil changes coming every 3 to 4k miles, do you actually save the cost. My GUESS is no.

The link below shows an independent test done on Class 8 trucks yielding an average of 8.2 percent improvement in fuel mileage when AMSOIL lubricants were used in the engine, transmission and third members of the test vehicles.

AMSOIL has engine oils developed to perform for up to 35,000 miles on one engine oil change when used with the AMSOIL oil filter.

Information on AMSOIL Synthetic Nano-Fiber Technology Oil Filters:

I hear ya, and AMSOL is not the only one. Slick 50, Mobile One, and rest of the endless list have similar reports.

But what I can't understand, is if all this stuff is all that great, why doesn't everyone already use it, and why don't the automakers insist on it to help meet the standards for mileage and efficiency?

I have tried AMSOL, Slick 50, Lucus, several synthetics, in many different type of vehicles, and never witnessed a significant difference.

The difference is in your sig line. You don't sell it :-)

If it really could yield "8.2%" improvement, you can bet it would ship in vehicles and be recommended.

I don't doubt it is no worse for a vehicle than conventional oil. But I remain unconvinced it is significantly better, and I am reall out on the idea of many of the fantastic claims about some of the lesser known oils. I've used Mobile 1 - simply dupbled the intervals compared to Pennzoil, it was 2x the cost, so a wash on the expense - just did the chagnes 1/2 as often. After 200k on a 4 cyl engine, it was about what you'd expect. Nothing measured new but it was far from worn out. About what I have seen with regular oil changed short (3,000) religiously, oil and filter every time. 'Course I change other fluids short also - and do not believe in "5 year/100k" antifreeze and such either.

"Tim" wrote:

Why? $$$$$$$ It costs more money to use synthetic than it does to use a 55 gallon drum of cheap oil. Notice, however, the Corvette uses Mobil 1.

I have always noticed an improvement in mileage with synthetics and KN air filters. They DO work. Cost recovery is debatable. I now have over 200,000 miles on my Toyota Corolla and, yes, it is burning some oil, but still running strong.

Mike D.

Those big rig manufacturers give a longer warrantee if you use synthetics.

OK, I can believe that, but those are intened for far more miles (10 times?) than the average Joe or Jane runs a conventional gas engine.

And the statement is not true anyway.

It cost too much. For negligable gains.

and why don't the automakers insist on it

The EPA defines that requirement now. And dino oil does the trick , according to them. My Toyota , and VW require synthetic oil for the warranty. Has to do with heat, sludge and turbos on too tightly wound engines.

Ive noticed a differencew on any oil change I do. I think its the milage dropped off on the old oil. The new oil brought it back up to normal .

There is no cost recovery. Extended oil changes or air filters is another business scam to help you decide to buy it.

Im pretty sure you negate any gains in engine life by extending out oil synthetic changes. To make it cost effective. You cant tell when your oil filter is plugged and is bypassing . Its stupid to extend oil changes to save 3 bucks a quart.

I now have over 200,000

Your point?

Tell that to the truckers I know.

.5 - 1 mile increase in every vehicle I have owned in the last 20 years.

I haven't noticed any drop from one oil change to the next.

On my Suburban, assuming a change from 15 to 15.5 mpg and $2.32/gallon I have a savings of $14.97 at 3,000 miles. Extended oil changes do not affect filter changes. Running for 7,000 miles means no additional oil expense other than makeup oil (what is in the filter when you take it off). That is saving over $30 in fuel. My burb takes 5 quarts at just under $5/qt, so about $25 at an oil change. There are a few $$$ in savings and lots in less wear and tear on reduced friction.

Being a small-time AmsOil dealer for the past 20-years can attest that AmsOil is by far better than any other product being offered on the market. It takes time to change your mind-set to switch over but once you do, you will discover the benefits. It also behooves you to do your own research on all the products being offered. Independent tests show that AmsOil out performs ANY of the products being offered today. The AmsOil web site has a tremendous amount of information, you just have to take the time to check it out.

Are they API certified oils??

Even if they put the API logo on them now, I'd still not let any Scamsoil product near any of my vehicles given their history and their spamming.

The best MPG increase I've seen with my truck was from switching to skinny overinflated tires (LT215/85-R16D's.) They also perform *much* better on slushy roads than the stock P255 tires. The next thing I'm gonna try is adding a half-tonneau cover (back half) to reduce wind resistance.

Oil has gotten so good, I don't think there's much efficiency to be gained there, unless you are still running SA-rated straight

30-weight. (queue the Crazy Scotsman with the dipstick) ;-)

Bob

Okay, attest.

Name the OEM approvals that Amsoil meets. GM 6094M? GM 4718M? Ford M2C929-A? Ford M2C930-A? Chrysler MS6395M? Chrysler MS6395Q? Honda HTO-06? VW 503.01? VW504? VW 505? VW 505.01? VW 506? VW 506.01? VW 507? BMW LL-98? BMW LL-01? BMW LL-04? MB 229.1? MB 229.3? MB 229.31? MB 229.5? MB 229.51?

How about any ACEA approvals? A1/B1? A3/B3? A3/B4? A5/B5?

Too tough? Want easier? Any ILSAC approvals?

How about easiest? API?

Is Amsoil approved in any meaningful way? (other than by Amsoil and their sales droids who apparently know little if anything about oil approvals)

Not following the OEM warranty requirements is a benefit?

It behooves you to follow your own advice.

Ah yes, the meaningless 'four ball wear test."

A tremendous amount of DISinformation.