Have a Dodge with 130K miles. Just had all new SYN Oil and lube done
and was on the highway about 2 weeks later and the oil pressure gauge
dropped to zero. The Check Engine light came on and we pulled over
checked oil. Oil was full abd when we started we heard a light
Stopped again and the light went off and no sound but we were
Brought it into a mechanic and he said he saw sludge. Told us he
to replace the pump, flush, and replace the radiator and for 2200 it
would be a temp patch. Or we could replace the engine.
Anyone have any ideas on this one?? Thanks for your help!
No sure why they would flush and replace the radiator? Do you have a leak
in the radiator, that would be the only reason I could think of that would
warrant a replacement. At 130k if you had regular services done, you don't
think you should have to rebuild or replace the engine. I had more then
that on my Ram when I traded it in with no problems. You could run a little
ATF through the oil and that would break down and get rid of some of your
"sludge" which may/should help restore some oil pressure.
A switch to synthetic after 130K of Pennzoil might have loosened
accumulated crud. I once had a Toyota that suffered recurring oil
pressure and ticking problems, beginning a couple weeks after I made the
brilliant choice to treat the truck to some swell Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
There's a recent "oil viscosity" discussion that will show you the
general quality of azwiley1's advice.
Reason and free inquiry are the only effective
agents against error. - Thomas Jefferson
Yep - that is the conclusion that I also came to about the loosened
sludge. What I don't understand is why a mechanic did not know that
when he changed over but everyone and their wife and secretary seems
to know about this! Very surprising and possibly worth some financial
help on the new engine. But I am not gonna holf my breath!
Many people switch to SYN oil on high mileage engines thinking it
going to gven them a magical amount of extra life. Their money and
efforts would be better spent on keeping the engines diet the same and
changing oil regularly (like about every 3K or less if it get dirty
quickly) instead of changing to SYN oil. It simply is not worth it
economically nor worth the risk if engine oil has not been changed
often enough and sludge has built up. I am not sure how many more will
ruin their engine trying this convinced it is magical. When a engine
get old it is not the time to change to a SYN oil as it can cause
problems of its own. Also, SYN oil gets dirty just like conventional
oil and in a older engine it get dirty faster and it is not the time
to try to change to extended drian intervals, BTW, I do have a 18 year
old vehicle that uses SYN oil but it has been using it since it had 5K
miles on it and kinda as a long term test and not switched to it later
in life. I might also say that so far the only real difference I have
seen is maybe in extreme cold starting and not engine life because I
have run engines past 200K several times just using regular oil
changed every 3K miles or a bit more often when they get older.
On Wed, 02 May 2007 01:26:45 GMT, email@example.com (beekeep) wrote:
This in not normal nature for this engine because it means something
was wrong when you put it in. It is a miracle that it has not had a
rod bearing failure yet. It is one of the above (including improperly
sized engine bearings from start)
IF there is sludge in the engine. then yes you can drop the pan, replace
the oil pump and pickup screen, clean the pan out and put it back. but if
you take this route you have to remember that there IS sludge thought the
rest of the engine and IF it gets disturbed it breaks loose and comes down
into the pan.
here's your issue (assuming there is sludge and i don't doubt it) sludge
breaks free from farther up in your engine, washes down with your oil back
into the oil pan where it floats around waiting to get sucked up by the
oil pickup tube. now this tube is only so large and has a screen on it to
keep stuff floating around in the pan, like sludge, from getting into the
oil pump and stopping the whole works. now over time sludge will build up
enough in the pan that when the pickup tube gets totally covered your oil
pressure drops to zero, as you have seen, this of course means lack of
lube. when you shut the truck off, the sludge floats away, thus the
ability to start it back up with oil pressure (in case you were wondering
about that one).
in my experience, its best to replace a severely sludged engine because of
all the stuff that can break loose and put you back in the same boat all
over again. if its not that sludged up, or you just cant afford to
replace the engine yet, then replacing the pump, screen and cleaning the
pan will buy you some time. the amount of time depends on how severe the
sludge condition is inside your particular engine.
also I'm not personally sold on engine flushes. I'm a bit of a skeptic
when it comes to "miracle in a bottle" type stuff. that being said I've
never disassembled a engine that has been "flushed" to see if it actually
helped. so this is simply my skepticism talking.
as far as replacing the radiator, I'd have to know more of the story. like
why does he want to replace the radiator? does it have scale in it? is it
stopped up? or is he just wanting to replace a good radiator while doing a
engine swap as a precaution of some sort? again I've always used the old
radiators on my swaps AS LONG as they passed the pressure tests and sown
no leaks or clues to being stopped up before hand.
Thanks for the info...We actually got info today that there are some
metal shavings in the oil pan. The mechanic also noticed a bearing was
loose. Although the engine never stopped on us, we are being told to
replace it completely and that just changing out th pump and other
will result in the same problem again soon.
Since the engine never ceased in us, is there anyway to just clean all
of the sludge out and replace the pump and other and put a better oil
and be OK. Or, do you pretty much just have to replace an engine once
it has too much sludge? Even if it is still runs? Seems like that is
what everyone has to do with this situation. It's a pretty big bill
for an older truck and we do use it for hauling heavy things but if we
are gonna spend any money, I want to make sure I don't overspend if it
is not necessary but I don't want to crack the engine if I start
pulling a trailer behind it. Thanks again for the help!
You can change the oil with ATF and let it idle for 15 min. Then drain the ATF,
change the filter, and put in oil. Run it for a week and change the oil and
filter again. If you susspect gunk in the pan you can spray cleaner in through
the oil drain hole using the little tube and get a lot of it out. Try to get
the pump pickup screen while your there.
This is starting to sound like a real scam to me. Do you have the vehicle
in the shop? Where did these "shavings" come from and how exactly did he
"SEE" a loose bearing? Exactly what bearing did he "see" was loose? I
would put a can of motor flush in it follow the directions, and see what
happens. Perhaps add a can of restore when putting in the new oil. A new
motor is expensive and flushing it out is not. If it fails anyway, then you
lost about 50 bucks but if it holds (and it probably will) then you saved
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
"RRR" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
I would think that the better question to ask is, if the vehicle is in
a shop, did they at least drop the oil pan to "see" this bearing? I
will go back to what I said in my very first reply, run a quart of ATF
through the engine, or as Tbone said you can use a can of Gunk Motor
flush BEFORE you allow them to do anymore "work" on your vehicle and
cost you a lot of money that may not be necessary.
Or you can listen to the shop and to the troll barrel and ignore my
advice as he has a woody for me and would rather post B.S. and try to
start crap instead of of helping people.
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