U-Joints and Differentials

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suck a way as to push out the cups as far as they will go againt the snap rings. This procedure is very hard for me to explain. Sorry. Basicly use the U-joint end(that is in the cap) to push out the cap against the snap ring. You do this by supporting the two opposite sides of the joint on your vise. Smack the end of the yoke that you are trying to seat. This way you push out the cap as far as it will go against the snap ring. If it is already loose, not binding, there is no need to do this. If there is a problem with you differential it will make some kind of noise(depending ont the problem). They take something in the nieghborhood of

80-90wt. grease. Usually this is called differential oil, or gear oil. Check the manual for exactly what the manufacturer wants in there. If it has posi-traction, they will want some additive in with it.

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snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ)

On the Origin Of Universal Joints The Stuff That Makes the Universe Spin ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The U-Joints weren't bad per say but now that I have a bit more liquid funds than I used to so

I'm doing a little preventative maintenance.

Got the joints in-HOWEVER:

The DIY article said that they will be snug/resistive when they first go in but shouldn't bind/grind/dirty dance etc... JUST how tight should they be? They don't feel like they are binding, grinding, or grabbing at all. But they are quite tighter than the ones that came out. I am guessing this is normal. Also I had to use the sockets to get it to compress tight enough for the second clip to seat. I really cranked down on it - more than when I was removing it but it just would not get perfectly flush with the snap rings seat.

Another question would be: why aren't they normal snap rings? Are they not in style any more?

Differentials: Anyone want to give me some hints on what too look for signs of grenading and what are my differentials supposed to take? I'm guessing some kind of hypoid grease? Jus' da fakts maaaaaam =========== =========== KJ, the tight u-joints should be okay.....as long as you didn't drop a needle bearing while installing them and crush it when you had to press it back in. If the snap ring went on .......then you didn't drop a bearing......so no probs. If you don't feel any "rumbling" while moveing the joint around...you should be OK.

Out of curiosty....were the snap rings on the outside of the caps or did they go on the inner side??

It's not unusual to have to exert a little extra force on the joint to get the caps to alighn back up. You may have had a burr on the yoke that you didn't catch....causing it to be a little tight going back in. shood'a cleaned it up with a file ...but no harm done.

Differential Lube....

On a limited slip diff.....I have always used plain ole 85w-90w ..and added a bottle of the additive. Others may differ with me....but in over 20 years I have'nt had any negative feed back. Standard diff.....85w-90w will do fine.

Best Suggestion......consult your maintenance manual for the truck, it should ID the lube and the differential for you.

scrib ~:~

They were on the outside, and looked like a demeted 'e" of sorts. I am still battling with the plastic injected ones on the rear axle though? I heated these up, and the fiberous plastic came spewing out of the injections holes - but I can't get the differentials to come out. Any help would be nice? Also -- the diff was for my truck in autozoned and it came with C clips, how are these going to go in???

Was under the impression that I shouldn't - so as to not mare the yoke.

Thanks. Any signs of ware that might not be obvious that I should look for?

I wish I had one :-)

after you do that all you need is 2 sockets and a bench vise. find a socket that is smaller than the OD of the bearing cap and one that is larger than the OD but will still stay on the yoke. use the vise to push the smaller socket into the yoke, forcing the opposite bearing cap into the larger socket. installation is the reverse of dissassembly.

differentials or U joint? two completely different animals.

Any help would be

if you're actually talking about the U-joint, the C clips go on the INSIDE of the bearing cap to retain them. if you're actually talking about the differential, the C clip goes into a slot on the end of the axle shaft and retains the axle shaft (and spider gear) within the carrier.

HTH, Bret

IDIOT POSTER WARNING

PLEASE READ DENOTED DEMENTED WRITINGS

Been doing that.

DEMENTED~ Yes I ment the U-joint ~DEMENTED

DEMENTED~ Yes I ment the U-joint ~DEMENTED

Sorry, hate when I write what I'm thinking about not what I'm typing about.

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. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ KJ writes.......

The U-Joints weren't bad per say but now that I have a bit more liquid funds than I used to so I'm doing a little preventative maintenance.

Got the joints in-HOWEVER:

I am still battling with the plastic injected ones on the rear axle though? I heated these up, and the fiberous plastic came spewing out of the injections holes - but I can't get the differentials to come out. Any help would be nice? Also -- the diff was for my truck in autozoned and it came with C clips, how are these going to go in???

Differential ....

Any signs of ware that might not be obvious that I should look for? ====== ====== KJ, if you have already heated the teflon out of the yoke....

Lay the u-joint across TWO pieces of sturdy wood....I use 2 chunks of 4x4.

Take the caps off the ends that are not in the yoke.....set those ends on the 2 4x4's, or whatever you have handy.

Then....place a piece of 2x4 just behind where you are trying to drive the cap out.

Now....using a big ass hammer...a 5 pound sledge works great......hit that sucker as hard as you can on the first lick.

The cap should pop out.

Don't go pounding on the driveshaft, because you can bend it. If you use the wood on the driveshaft as a cushion...you will be okay. A socket that would let the cap slide in it.... layed on top and slammed with a hammer would be better....but the wood works well.

Simply spin her over to do the other side.

On to the Differential.....

As far as wear that might not be obvious to YOU.....

look for....

Sharp teeth on the gears...razor like.

Blueing of the gear...from heat. It may show as only spots.

Shiny "spots" on the gear teeth facings that indicate an alignment problem.

Check for pinion looseness.... grab the pinion yoke...see if you can move it forward and aft......or even wiggle it.

Other than the obvious chunks of metal, missing teeth, and lots of slop....

unusual wear patterns showing up as spots, blueing, or sharpened teeth ..would be all that you could hope NOT TO FIND.

marsh monster ~says....when it comes to u-joints.....beat em till they bleed.....then beat em fer bleed'n~