Ignition switch - 2000 Concorde LXi

I had a similar problem with the ignition switch in one of my Concordes (my daily driver). I removed the cylinder and flushed out all the wear particles real good with brake parts cleaner, then sprayed lithium grease (spray can from auto parts store - great stuff to keep around - real lithium grease in a carrier fluid that evaporates leaving a nice super-thin coat of the grease) into it. Then wiped off any excess with a paper towel and re-installed it. That was about 3 years ago - no problems since.

WD-40 is not a lubricant that has any staying power whatsoever - it totally evaporates. Its purpose is to displace water. Not much good for anything else (except cleaning adhesives off of stuff).

So.... WD40 probably wouldn't hurt? It has some lubricant properties so if I find my problem disappears immediately and comes back latter, I can assume lubrication is the answer and I can disassemble and proceed as you did. Sound like a plan?

Certainly. It could fix it for a long time too. I think that the problem is accumulated wear particles jamming it up. If that theory is correct, then the mere act of flushing it out real good may be good enough. Lubrication (again, that WD-40 does not provide for very long at all) would just make it smoother and make the correction less marginal.

Were you successful in getting your inner tie rod bushings replaced?

Thanks, Bill. I'll proceed with the WD40 as 1st shot and see if it brings releif. If it does, I'll let it go until the next time. Then I'll dissemble and go the lithium grease route. I have some of that in a spray can that has a narrow nozzle (tube) just like the WD40 can as well but if I use that it probably won't penetrate as far as the WD40.

And "Yes" I got the tie rod end fixed. Had to borrow lots of tools from my neighbor and finally make a tool out of the connecting bolt to remove the bushing (I made a little hand press) but... I gotter done! Thanks for the help there as well.

Page 8D-10 under "Removal" speaks of placing the ignition key in the "run position" to permit the lock cylinder retaining clip to be depressed. How does one do that if the key doesn't turn? That's why the cylinder has to be replaced; the key won't turn the ignition switch on.

Two thoughts:

1) Get it to turn One More Time. Make *really* certain the steering isn't putting any pressure on the lock plate, wiggle the key a lot..... 2) Carbide tip drill bit. Only for absolutely last resort...

Also, make sure it's not a problem with the ignition interlock cable adjustment being out rather than the ignition cylinder itself binding up. Can you tell if it's simply tight/binding vs. a hard stop? If the latter, it could very well be the interlock cable being out of adjustment.

FSM has a description on doing that adjustment, but sometimes the "semi-automatic" technique they describe doesn't work. Involves removing the shifter bezel to reach the adjustment mechanism at the shifter end. But once in there, you can play with that cable from the shifter end and determine if that's the problem.

I mentioned that shifter cable to the mechanic at the dealership where I got the part. He looked at me like he didn't know what I was talking about then said that usually doesn't come into play. That surprised me because the way the manual is written, it implies this adjustment is a necessary step. What's your take?

I'm a tad confused about your "tight/binding vs. a hard stop". Don't you mean that if it were the former rather than latter it would suggest the cable? I have a hard stop. Aside from the minimal play one would expect in a cylinder, that key stops dead which would imply to me it's hit a tumble or two that aren't supposed to be there (worn and shifted or out of position). A "slipped" cable (I would think) might feel like it gradually slips away as the key turns, gives a little, then binds but otherwise allowing the key to turn a little more.

But then let's remember... I've got zip experience at having done one of these in the past so... what the hell do I know. I'm going from what seems to make sense. Kindda like reading about jumping into the Arctic Ocean if one has never experienced "cold". I THINK I know what that's like but then... You get the picture. Did you mean "hard stop =3D possible cable adjustment or no"?

I guess you're right if it were a tumbler stuck, so a hard stop could be either. The interlock cable positions a hard plastic slide across a flat on the cylinder.

Update: Mission accomplished... for real! :-)

Did nothing with the cable. I couldn't see how that came into play with what I did. Had I removed the switch, it would have made sense 'cause the cable would have had to be disconnected from the cylinder housing. Howerver, the old lock cylinder slid out as smoothly as the new one slid in. Piece of cake. I noticed no change in ignition/shift lever interaction and the car started, drove, stopped, and restarted several times so far without incident. Ninety five percent of my time was spent reading and thinking about the repair since I was unfamiliar with the terms and mechanisms. The repair manual goes to great length to point out the danger of air bags. That slowed me down a lot. Had to jump around in that manual reading a lot of stuff that really wasn't pertinent to the repair per se but had to be understood, I guess, to avoid doing something stupid.... like pounding on a protruding guide on the housing rather than the retractable tab that retreats into the lock cylinder when the key is turned properly. Caught myself in time though.

Thanks for the help, folks.

So you were able to get it to turn like Joe suggested so you could turn the key to R&R the cylinder. You now have a new cylinder and different ignition key?

Sure do. And as luck would have it, when I got the steering wheel column covers and that security switch (ring around the key cylinder) off, the key turned within minutes. I didn't have to make three half hour attempts like I did just prior to that repair. All done. New cylinder installed.