i have a problem with overheating
the car after a 5 mile or so run will overheat the radiator is cold if i open the bleed valve (top left on the head) loads of air comes out and the rad gets hot
but i have to keep doing this any ideas what to do
Gareth
If you have refilled and bled the radiator properly then it is probably a blown head gasket. You have filled it up with a header bottle haven't you?
is the water in de radiator on level?? No water no kooling.
Open all bleed valve's on top of the enigine, radiator and bring the water on level. Start the engine and check the water level. Close the bleed valve's one after one on till water is running out of it.
if this not working, check the thermostat valve on the left in the engine room above de gearbox. It is possible that de valve can be stuck. Then the water only circulate in the engine and not through radiator.
Otherwise it is possible that the waterpump is not working. The distribution (valve) belt drives the waterpump. This is not cheap. "Crwni" schreef in bericht news:4504ade7$0$2651$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net...
i have replaced the heater matrix (well not me but a friend) and had the head gasket replaced and was hoping that would be the end of the woes.
Gareth
I hope you haven't popped a second head gasket. These engines have an alloy head which can be a bit fragile. Did you fill the radiator with a header bottle and properly bleed it before driving?
Which diesel is it, what year?
as far as i know it was done according to the book so i cant understand what the bloody problem is - the was sent away to be skimmed etc etc only genuine citroen parts used
it is the 1.9 turbo diesel and its on an s plate (70k on clock)
Gareth
In news:LVBNg.318$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe7-win.ntli.net, Brian wittered on forthwith;
and don't forget that *something* caused the head gasket to go in the first place. You've fixed the gasket, but the thermostat could well be what caused the gasket to go..
To expand on what Malc said, you need to raise the level of the water above the filler cap to get rid of all the air. This can easily be done using an old plastic bottle with a widish top, about the same dia. as the inside of the filler. Cut bottom off bottle, and use it like a long funnel to raise the water level. With this filled, open all the vents and only close them when water comes out. Then run it at fast idle for 5 minutes and check if the top of the rad is warming up. If it is not, then chances are that you have a faulty thermostat.
thanks to you all for the help and advice im told it was the temperature overheating when the heater matrix went (thus the replacement of heater matrix and head geasket followed)
ill try the high water level and see
when you say all the vents how many and where abouts are they
Gareth
"Pete M" wrote in message news:yQBNg.17929$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
To quote the Haynes BoL
"To assist draining open the heater bleed screw. These are located in the heater matrix outlet connector and/or hose (to improve access it may be located in and extension hose) on the engine compartment bulkhead, on top of the thermostat housing and in the coolant bypass hose depending on model."
IIRC mine was on a hose at the top right hand side of the engine (prolly going to the heater). I don't recall one on the thermostat housing but then again...
further to all the help and advice it seems 1 of the inlet hoses to the heater matrix was perished (didnt think it was that cold yet) this was bringing air into the system (but not losing water) been running 2+ hours and heater is nice n hot and no overheating.
be nice to get the xantia running along side my c5 and picasso again
Gareth
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