Im now MegaSquirted...

Sounds good. One of my long-term intentions is to MegaJolt my fast road Mini project. The ford coil pack is in my shed already.Though sorting the body is priority uno. Once I get wifey's Mini resto done. At least a family car shufflage now means I won't have son's Mini to weld as well!

A pal in the states got me a complete EDIS 8 kit from a scrappy. Obviously pretty common there - but cost quite a bit secondhand in the UK. But I'm going to start off with a modded distributor - advance mechanism locked up.

You might consider (if you can build it) a MegaSquirt kit. You can use it ignition only - and then perhaps later change to throttle body injection. Costs about 250 dollars as an import.

Oh, I can build it no probs, but injecting a Mini? That's hassle I don't need. The main reason for wanting to do away with the dizzy is wet-weather reliablilty!

Not too difficult with throttle body - you could do it using a pair of old SUs or whatever.

I never had a problem with my various Minis many years ago.

I'll look into it.

Every one of mine has needed a rubber boot on the dizzy cap; otherwise they get swamped on wet days. There isn't a lot of room to do that, so losing the dizzy is a good solution, especially as it then has programmable ignition!

The only other sensors needed are water temp - you could probably just substitute a different sensor to the existing one - intake air temp and a throttle position sensor. Pretty well any decent pot will do as MS can calibrate to it. The vacuum sensor is internal to the MS so merely needs a tube to it. You can use a hotwire airflow sensor too if you wish - but probably not needed. And to gild the lily a wideband O2 sensor. But that costs.

I never really found the boot a problem. But I fitted electronic 'points' early on so didn't need to get inside it often.

I'm not too sure separate coils will give any improvment. I'd guess when starting afresh they could be cheaper than a distributor. I'm using a distributor with the advance locked up but the original Lucas sensor and coil - the driver for that being the MS one. But of course in my version of the RV8 the distributor drives the oil pump so it would be expensive to delete it completely.

Tell me about it (it's also expensive if you don't insert it properly...) I have almost the same lump in my VW camper!

The BL workshop manual has quite good instructions about fitting it - engine at TDC, pump drive at 2 o'clock and rotor arm starting at 12 o'clock - or whatever. (Haven't got the actual instructions to hand but you get the picture.) But you're in no doubt if it's right as the distributor seats with a satisfying clonk. ;-)