Practical classic for a newbie

That was me, and it was based simply on seeing a very decent Mk2 1.6 Ghia auto (FSH, one owner from new) advertised recently for what struck me as very sensible money (under a thousand, can't recall exactly how much)

Stuffed wrote in message news:cdb9ui$ba7$ snipped-for-privacy@news.freedomsurf.net...

The early 1300s rusted badly on the front wings; later ones were better. Never owned one myself, so I can't say what they are like to own. Have driven one though, and liked it.

I had a 1500 FWD for a while. It ran well, and had a nice gearbox. Listen out for start-up rattle, particularly if it hasn't been used for a few days. Also watch out for soft engine mountings - it is quite possible to shred the radiator core with the fan if you are reversing up ramps! I found it under-geared and sounded very busy on motorways. Front shocks didn't seem to last all that long, but are easy enough to replace.

I swapped it for a 1500HL Dolomite. Not such a nice gearbox as the FWD (mine growled a bit on overrun in third, and judging by the scarcity of gearboxes for the 1500 in my local breakers, maybe a weak point. They had several 1850 gearboxes though). The overdrive made a lot of difference to both noise, top speed and fuel consumption, so well worth looking for an overdrive model. Handbrake needed a really hard pull to hold on hills. Exhaust tail pipe short lived - would be worth getting a stainless steel one if you intend to keep the car for any length of time. Watch for any sign of weeping from the water pump - the pump bearings go very quickly after the first sign. Water control valve on the heater can rust solid too, so if it works, use it often.

If you are prepared to go for something a bit bigger, the 2000 is a lot thirstier, but also very practical as a daily driver (I have used mine as a daily driver for the last 12 years). Try and find one with the oil filter conversion so that it hasn't suffered oil starvation on start up. The handbrake automatic adjustment mechanism isn't particularly effective. Some suffered from the propshaft being out of balance. It can be fixed, but it is better to look for one that doesn't have the problem, so try to take it onto a fast road during the test drive. The exhaust tail pipe doesn't last very long in mild steel form, and the exhaust centre section is a real s*d to change, so when you need exhaust parts, fit stainless steel so you can forget about it. Watch out for rust where the rearmost front suspension link meets the chassis, and in front of the rear wheels by the sub-frame joins, as both these places are difficult to repair. Same heater control problem as the Dolomite. Oil level in the diff is a bit awkward to check, but don't neglect this. Low oil in the diff will knock it out very quickly (it happened to a friend of mine, not me!). The lower ball joint on the steering only lasts 2-3 years if like me you do a lot of full lock getting in and out of tight parking places, but it is not particularly difficult to replace. Don't ignore it though, or it will wear the front tyres out. Watch out for leaks in the power steering if it is fitted - it is an immediate MOT fail.

Jim

To quote the member who supplies them to the club; "they (the sills) fit like a glove".

-Andy.

Perhaps I was a bit hasty there forgetting that four door models (if that's what it was) go for a fair bit less than two doors, especially in the back of beyond. To be honest, I'm rather biased against the things. I'm slowly coming around to understanding the appeal of the Mk1 Escort in some guises, but the tinny Mk2 does nothing for me.

Oi! Well, yes, it is a bit :)

It's been a very long time since I saw a Mk.1 that wasn't in rally-trim around here, though.

They don't do an awful lot for me, I have to say - but they are as simple as a very simple thing, reasonable to get parts for, not-at-all

-bad to drive (better than a lot of stuff from the time), usable on a daily basis and - if not necessarily fast in standard form, capable of being warmed over without too much difficulty.

That said, that 1600 Ghia was quite tempting - absolutely immaculate, and seemed to run reasonably well (no obvious smoke) - I've seen it around here quite a lot over the years before it came up for sale. However another car is just what I don't need at the moment - the boat is absorbing all spare hours :)

Decent Mk1 Granadas fetch silly money now.. as for Mk2's, I've had plenty of them and they're brilliant!!

absolutely!! I've had this 2.8 Ghia X Estate for years, it's my daily driver to and from work. 'Cos it's one of the last and the Mk3 was due out, Ford raided the parts bin and put everything on it to sell it. How about:- electric operated and heated seats, electric operated and heated mirrors, electric aerial, headlamp washers, sunroof, trip/fuel computer, alloy wheels, fog and spot lights, chin spoiler, sunroof spoiler, central locking, tinted glass, big enough to lose children and pets in, a load bed that will swallow everything, the most comfortable seats of any car I've had, a heater that will cook food and airconditioning to make ice. Effortless power and huge brakes to haul it back to a stop. Maybe not too big a deal by todays standards but the car is 20 years old. The only drawback if it's an issue is the fuel consumption if you like using the loud pedal, (I get about 17) Love 'em and finding a straight one might be time consuming but worth it and the car is well supported by clubs.

pottsy, (old enough to know better but still blowing the doors off the tw**hatch brigade) Derbyshire, Granada 2.8Ghia X Estate Jag XJ40 Chrysler PT Cruiser

In news:cdh2bu$e43$ snipped-for-privacy@hercules.btinternet.com, pottsy decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

I've had.... 3 2.8i Ghia X's, a 2.8 Ghia X (which was nowhere near as nice as the injection ones), a 2.8 injection, a 2.0 L ( I was skint), a 2.8i GLS, and an ex military 2.8iL. Loved 'em all to bits. the 2.8 Injection was my favourite, Bright red, immaculate Recaro interior, manual, Bilsteins, and only 90,000 miles.. All for £350...

Had a 3.0 Coupé a few years ago as well.. In fact, I know where there's a

2.0 Coupé for sale. Special order in this country, and the total lack of performance is obvious...

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember snipped-for-privacy@aber.ac.uk (ANDREW ROBERT BREEN) saying something like:

Somebody just got a nice one... new clutch and away it goes for another ten years...

[Scimitar]

T

That reminds me, I must sell mine. I had it in Classic Car weekly, but although there were enquiries, no-one came to see it.

1974 chrome bumper. Tax & MOT. Scruffy body and interior. I was looking for about £500 but having bought the Jag and an SS1, I could do with the space back.

So.... I am happy to listen to realistic offers. There is a poor res photo around somewhere, but I will take some decent ones when I have the chance and upload them to

(Nothing in that directory as yet!)

ALternatively... No mention of condition or mileage at all, very short MOT, clutch slipping could be due to oil pumping out of rear of engine. In two months it could just be another clapped out Scimitar with no MOT and a worthless engine.

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Willy Eckerslyke saying something like:

No big deal - hoik out the engine+box to do the clutch anyway, and once separated wazz off the rear plate and sump to do the rear seal. May as well do the front seal at the same time.

If the oil pressure's a bit low, this would be the perfect time to reshell the crank and fit a new pump.

Or...

Simply chuck in a known good lump.

Scimitars are not the type of car that should be bought by someone with no mechanical knowledge or aptitude.

I had a Mk II 2.3L. Not so fast 0-60 as the bigger engines but also quite capable of lolloping along the motorway at 90+. No power steering though. I liked the gearbox and the brakes. Clutch nice and light, so not too tiring in stop/start traffic. Bodywork made of decent thickness of metal and not really rust prone. I was not so fond of the L seats though, and winding, slippery roads were a bit of an adventure.

I would own another Granada if a good one came my way (although I am quite settled with my Triumphs now). I would never contemplate one in the standard repmobile trim again though.

Jim

lol

Sadly, I've not seen the 20 something blonde who commented the other week again, but there's been the odd 30 something comment too. Besides, I don't mind a little maturity, although I do have limits! I figure seeing as my car is older than me, they ought to be not a great deal older than my car :)

My later one (1970) was actually more rotten underneath than the 68 I'm using now, but the 68 has been family owned and well looked after from new. At least the body's been looked after, the mechanicals are showign signs of neglect though :(

I'm used to start up rattle if it hasn't been used for a few minutes! They are nice to drive though, quite a good shift considering the gear arrangement, plus there isn't a ruddy great grearbox next to your left knee, which might bother some people. The big plus is fully independent suspension, something teh later 1500fwd didn't have, and of course the rwd is live axle.

I've had a fan go through the rad on my old one. Took out the top tank :( I think the moutns are soft on my current one too, there's definate "wobble" of the engine at times. As for gearing, they are very low geared indeed, but not too bad up to about 70. Nothing like as refined as a taller geared car of course, but then there's only a 60 hamster power lump of cast to move it!

I could be wrong, but I though the 1850 and 1500 boxes were the same, apart from input shafts? I have had a couple of rwd 130 and 1500s that have had noisey boxes though. Handbrake on the HL would be self adjusting, or more to the point, not adjusting, might have been part of your problem with it?

Not had any probs with heater valves or leaking water pumps yet, but tailpipes have been rotten on near every one I've owned, and I've had about half a dozen I think in the last couple of years (I almost change my socks less often than I do cars at times!).

I wouldn't mind a 2000 if one came along at the right price, the engines don't seem as fragile as the 4 pot versions from what I've read. Is the oil filter conversion doneso as to stop teh filter being tipped upside down as on the standard install? If so, where can it be gotten from, and does it fit straight onto the 1300/ 1500 engines? Would be a good idea to fit one if it does :)

In news:cdmhmg$j47$ snipped-for-privacy@news.freedomsurf.net, Stuffed decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

What's a nice 2500S cost?

I have a strange hankering for a mimosa yellow 2500S with overdrive. Don't know why, as it's nowhere near as funky as a 2.5 PI, but as I'd be using it for a 25 mile a day commute I'd like to actually get to work occasionally and I've never known a 2.5PI that would make it that far reliably.

This includes a neighbour of mine who worked for Lucas on the development of the PI system. He bought a brand new 2.5PI in 1970 and in the 15 years he owned it I don't think it ever managed to last an entire week without some sort of major injection system malady. Every weekend you'd hear a varied stream of cursing coming from the direction of CNS244H..

In news:GyBLc.5169$ snipped-for-privacy@news-text.cableinet.net, Pete M decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

that's 25 miles each way... and thinking about it, the wheels on the 2500S were funky..

Practical Classics reckon £1500 for a 'condition 2' car. Oooh, tempting.

Heh.

Most seem to have been converted back to carbs at some point in their life. Only complete anoracks keep the PI system for 'originality'.