Re: waxoyl

"Dave Plowman" wrote

Dinitrol was found to be better by IIRC Practical Classics magazine.

Or if the sun's shining, just stand the tin on the parcel shelf of your car for an hour or two before using it.

Mind you, I really try not to spray the stuff, preferring to paint it on or pour it in. Filling entire box sections and then allowing the excess to flow into a container is the most effective method.

And price and availability. I think it's fine inside box sections, doors and the like where it's not going to get worn/washed away, but prefer something with more staying power under wheel arches and other exposed areas. PC's test found it didn't creep as well as some products, but I've noticed it leaking out of a few panel joints where there's no visible gap, suggesting it penetrates surprisingly well.

If you have a tarmac drive move the car somewhere else. The solvent in Waxoyl softens tarmac.

Mark

Alternatively, if you are feeling adventerous, Bitumen Mastic mixed with Diesel works a treat, and doesnt break the bank.

OK .. so you end up getting covered in it and look like a golliwog afterwards, but whos counting that small factor.

It does the job and is damn effective !!

Novice chemist here! What ratio does it have to be mixed in? Any special precautions to be taken with it? Does it set solid or is it flexible? Jon

Thanks for the advice. I have just brought a garden sprayer which holds about 4 litres, but there is a warning saying it shouldn't be used with solvents, flammable materials etc, or may may basicaly explode, presumably because the safety valve may fail. Would it be safe to use with waxoyl?.

If you can't be bothered mixing.

Theres also the Hammerite bitumin underseal with waxoyl built in, I've had good results with it.

I have just done my car with the official Waxoyl sprayer. It's just about OK without the extension tube, but even in warm weather (and 10-15% white spirit) the stuff solidifies very quickly in the tube. It's not very good at all. The old one which used liquid pressure rather than air pressure worked much better but fell to bits quickly. The extension also doesn't atomise the Waxoyl, just puts out a rather inaccurate curtain of it. The instructions say not to saturate the area but for box sections there's no alternative if you want to make reasonably sure of coverage. I had to keep the pressure can in a bucket of hot water and keep immersing the extension tube to melt the Waxoyl. Not a good idea to get water in your box sections though! I think it's done now but really need an endoscope to check.

Waxoyl is not good at all as an underbody seal - tried that 20 years ago and rust carried on underneath. The Hammerite underseal which contains Waxoyl seems OK. Ask me in another 20 years.

I found waxoyl in a plant sprayer microwaved for a couple of mins produce a liquid that was about as runny as water. when the trigger was pulled a fine mist very similar to hairspray was prooduced. this left a fine caotinfg on the surface treated and NO blockage probs......

Great idea!, but the plant sprayer I've bought will be too big for the microwave.

I always thin it to the desired consistency using White Spirit. Best results are with a compressor, Schutz gun and extension probe, I also use an old spraygun for fine coverage of large external areas too.

Steve. Suffolk. remove 'knujon' to e-mail

I'm not sure sticking something that's highly inflammable in a microwave is a good idea. Unless it gives the cooking time on the label. ;-)

ISTR Dinitrol came out best in Practical Classics tests, as a result of which Frost switched to supplying Dinitrol. (The Dinitrol polyurethane sealant is also a harder and stronger adhesive than Sikaflex)

We use a paraffin spray gun. Cheap to buy and fills the box sections with a mist which penetrates. You need a big enough hole though. I wouldn't advise filling the box sections. A friend of mine did this on his TR. After some fairly major teething probs when the car was run again. he suffered severe clutch slip and steering was all over the place. Turned out that the waxoyl filled sills were dumping their contents in front of the rear tyres under acceleration. His clutch slip was wheel spin and the bad steering was wheel spin.

John

I doubt it lasted THAT long and would have been fun while it lasted...:-)

Jonners